The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Ravenna, Italy

When Ravenna became capital of the Western Roman Empire in 402 AD, the marshes surrounding it offered military protection while its port at Classe connected it to Constantinople. Over the next two centuries, emperors and bishops transformed this strategic outpost into a treasury of Christian art unlike anything else in the Western world. The mosaics that cover walls, domes, and apses here predate Hagia Sophia and surpass it in preservation—golden tesserae that have shimmered in candlelight for fifteen hundred years, proclaiming the faith in images of such power that the Arian heresy itself seems to answer from an adjacent baptistery. The apostolic thread runs deeper still. According to tradition, St. Peter himself consecrated Apollinaris as the first bishop of Ravenna and sent him to evangelize the region. For twenty-six years Apollinaris preached, healed, and suffered—beaten, exiled, tortured with fire—until his final martyrdom around 200 AD. His bones still rest beneath the altar of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, while his head and right hand return each July to the cathedral that bears his name. Dante Alighieri, exiled from Florence, spent his final years here and completed the Paradiso in this city of golden light. His tomb stands beside the Basilica of San Francesco, where thirteen bells toll at sunset on September 14th, the anniversary of his death.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The See of Ravenna claims apostolic foundation through St. Apollinaris, whom tradition identifies as a disciple of St. Peter. The apostle reportedly consecrated Apollinaris bishop and sent him from Antioch to evangelize the Adriatic coast. For over two decades, Apollinaris worked miracles that converted pagans and enraged authorities: he restored sight to a governor's blind son, raised the daughter of a tribune from apparent death, and healed a nobleman named Irenaeus whose son lay dying. Each miracle brought persecution. Roman officials beat him, burned him, and exiled him repeatedly, yet he returned each time to his flock. Around 200 AD, after a final beating that left him barely alive, Apollinaris died seven days later at Classe, the port of Ravenna. Bishop Ursus (399–426) began the transformation of Ravenna into a Christian capital, constructing the first cathedral and baptistery. His successor Neon (449–468) completed the baptistery that now bears his name, commissioning the dome mosaic of Christ's baptism that remains the oldest surviving representation of the scene. Between them came St. Peter Chrysologus (433–450), whose honeyed preaching earned him the title "Golden Word" and later recognition as a Doctor of the Church. When Empress Galla Placidia arrived from Constantinople, she brought Byzantine artisans who filled her churches with images of paradise—the Good Shepherd surrounded by sheep in an alpine meadow, saints processing toward Christ in imperial purple, the star-spangled vault of her mausoleum that inspired countless imitations. The sixth century brought the flowering of Ravenna's artistic glory. Bishop Ecclesius (521–534) began San Vitale, and Archbishop Maximian (546–556) completed it, creating the supreme monument of Byzantine art in the West. The flanking panels of Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora offering gifts for the Eucharist represent the most famous portraits surviving from antiquity. Across the city, the mosaics of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo—originally built as the Arian chapel of the Ostrogothic King Theodoric—were reconsecrated to Catholic orthodoxy in 561 and rededicated to St. Martin of Tours, the hammer of heretics. Twenty-six male martyrs and twenty-two virgin martyrs process eternally toward Christ and Mary on walls that once displayed Theodoric himself. St. Romuald of Ravenna (951–1027) emerged from the city's noble families to found the Camaldolese Order. As a young man of twenty, he witnessed his father kill a relative in a duel and fled to Sant'Apollinare in Classe to do penance. There, in the monastery beside the martyr's tomb, Apollinaris appeared to him twice around 972 AD, setting him on a path that would lead to the founding of Camaldoli in 1012. Ravenna's final claim on literary immortality came when Dante Alighieri (1265–1321), exiled from Florence, completed his Divine Comedy here. He died on September 13, 1321, and was buried the following day in the church then called San Pier Maggiore—now San Francesco—where Benedict XV commissioned the restoration of the church for the 600th anniversary of the poet's death.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Ravenna

Basilica di San Vitale

Basilica of Saint Vitalis Bishop Ecclesius began this octagonal church in 526 over the tomb of St. Vitalis, who was buried alive at "the Palm-tree" in 171 AD during the persecution under Marcus Aurelius. Archbishop Maximian consecrated it on April 19, 547, creating the supreme achievement of Byzantine art in the Western world. The sanctuary mosaics present a complete Eucharistic theology: Abel and Melchizedek offer their sacrifices on one side while Abraham prepares to sacrifice Isaac on the other, all pointing to the altar where the true sacrifice takes place. Christ sits enthroned in the apse, youthful and beardless in imperial purple—a deliberate anti-Arian statement of his co-eternal divinity—while below, Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora process with gifts for the Mass in the most famous portraits surviving from Late Antiquity. Address Via San Vitale, 17, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.420833, 12.196389 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Sant'Apollinare in Classe

Basilica of Saint Apollinaris in Classe Five kilometers southeast of Ravenna, at the ancient port of Classe, this basilica rises above the tomb of the city's founding bishop. Bishop Ursicinus began construction in 533, and Archbishop Maximian consecrated it on May 9, 549. The apse mosaic presents one of the most original theological programs in Christian art: rather than depicting the literal Transfiguration, it shows a jeweled cross floating in a starry sky with Moses and Elijah emerging from clouds, while below, St. Apollinaris stands in prayer amid a paradisal garden with twelve sheep representing the apostles. The saint's remains, transferred from their original burial site after ninth-century raids, rest beneath the main altar in an eighteenth-century arrangement. Pope Alexander III confirmed the basilica's privileges in 1173. Address Via Romea Sud, 224, 48124 Classe GPS 44.379167, 12.236944 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Duomo di Ravenna

Ravenna Cathedral The present cathedral, reconstructed in the eighteenth century after the medieval structure became unstable, preserves treasures from earlier centuries within its Baroque interior. The Madonna del Sudore ("Our Lady of Sweat"), a fourteenth-century icon, draws particular veneration, as does a thirteenth-century crucifix that reportedly dripped blood in 1512. The sixth-century Ambo of Bishop Agnellus (557–570), carved from a single block of marble with symbols of the four evangelists, survives from the original cathedral. Most significantly, each year on July 23rd—the Solemnity of St. Apollinaris in the local calendar—the head and right hand of the apostolic bishop return here from Sant'Apollinare in Classe for public veneration, a practice documenting the division of the saint's relics between his two principal churches. Address Piazza Duomo, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.415556, 12.198889 Map Google Maps Web duomoravenna.it

Sant'Apollinare Nuovo

Basilica of Saint Apollinaris the New Theodoric the Great, the Arian Ostrogothic king, built this basilica as his palace chapel in the early sixth century. After the Byzantine reconquest, Archbishop Agnellus reconsecrated it in 561 AD, dedicating it to St. Martin of Tours—a saint famous for combating Arianism—and later transferred relics of St. Apollinaris here from Classe, giving the church its present name. The upper walls preserve Theodoric's original mosaics: scenes from Christ's miracles and Passion line the nave, the oldest surviving monumental cycle of the Life of Christ. Below them, twenty-six male martyrs process from Theodoric's palace toward Christ enthroned, while twenty-two virgin martyrs advance from the port of Classe toward the Madonna and Child. The Arian figures originally depicted were replaced with these processions, but close inspection reveals palimpsest traces of hands and drapery belonging to Theodoric's courtiers. Address Via di Roma, 52, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.417222, 12.204167 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Mausoleo di Galla Placidia

Mausoleum of Galla Placidia Despite its traditional name, this small cruciform building (c. 425–450) was likely built as an oratory dedicated to St. Lawrence rather than as a burial chapel for the empress, who died in Rome in 450 and was probably buried there. What it lacks in size it surpasses in intimacy and preservation—these are the oldest mosaics in Ravenna and among the finest anywhere. The dome glows with a starfield of gold crosses against deep blue, while the lunettes present the Good Shepherd tending his flock in an alpine landscape, St. Lawrence approaching the gridiron of his martyrdom with a bookcase of Gospels beside him, and deer drinking from the waters of paradise. The blues and golds seem to shift in the natural light filtering through alabaster windows, creating an effect that photographs cannot capture. Address Via San Vitale, 17, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.421111, 12.196944 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Battistero Neoniano

Neonian Baptistery Bishop Neon completed this octagonal baptistery between 449 and 468, crowning the interior with the oldest surviving monumental representation of Christ's baptism. In the dome's center, a youthful Christ stands in the Jordan while John the Baptist pours water over his head and the river god—a Christianized classical motif—observes from the waters. The twelve apostles process around this central scene, carrying crowns of martyrdom. Below the mosaics, two registers of stucco prophets and inlaid marble complete the decorative program. The octagonal form itself carries theological weight: eight sides represent the "eighth day" of the new creation inaugurated by baptism, a symbolism that would echo through baptisteries for a thousand years. Address Piazza Duomo, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.415833, 12.198611 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Battistero degli Ariani

Arian Baptistery Theodoric built this baptistery in the late fifth century for the Arian Christians of his court, and it preserves the only surviving Arian religious decoration. The dome mosaic depicts the same scene as the Neonian Baptistery—Christ's baptism in the Jordan—but with telling differences: Christ appears completely nude, emphasizing his humanity in accordance with Arian theology that subordinated the Son to the Father. A figure personifying the Jordan River sits at Christ's left, holding a cloth. The twelve apostles process around the circumference carrying crowns, led by St. Peter and St. Paul, who approach a jeweled throne representing Christ's divine nature. After the Byzantine reconquest, the building was converted to Catholic use and dedicated to Santa Maria. Address Piazzetta degli Ariani, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.417778, 12.200833 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Cappella Arcivescovile

Archiepiscopal Chapel Buried within the episcopal palace, this private chapel of the archbishops of Ravenna was built between 494 and 519, during the Arian period, as an assertively orthodox space. The vestibule mosaic presents Christ as a warrior in Roman military dress, trampling serpent and lion underfoot—an image of conquering orthodoxy against heresy. The chapel proper contains the only surviving early Christian representation of Christ with his monogram repeated in the vault, along with mosaics of apostles, saints, and birds pecking at vines. Most remarkably, the marble balustrade bears a triple declaration of Christ's nature—"Lord," "God," and "Savior"—in three languages (Latin, Greek, and Hebrew), an unmistakable anti-Arian proclamation of Christ's full divinity. Address Piazza Arcivescovado 1, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.415278, 12.198056 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

Basilica di San Francesco

Basilica of Saint Francis This tenth-century church, built over a fifth-century predecessor, draws pilgrims not for its architecture but for its adjacency to the tomb of Dante Alighieri. The poet's funeral was celebrated here on September 14, 1321, the day after his death in exile from Florence. The crypt, flooded with clear water from the lowered water table, preserves ninth-century floor mosaics visible beneath the surface—fish swim over images of the saints. Each evening from April through October, a volunteer reads a canto of the Divine Comedy at 6 PM outside the church, and on September 14th, thirteen bells toll at sunset while ceremonies honor the poet whom Pope Francis called "a prophet of hope and witness to the innate yearning for the infinite present in the human heart." Address Piazza San Francesco, 1, 48121 Ravenna GPS 44.414722, 12.202222 Map Google Maps Web ravennamosaici.it

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

Solemnity of St. Apollinaris — July 23

While the Universal Church commemorates St. Apollinaris on July 20, Ravenna celebrates its apostolic patron with a Solemnity on July 23. The centerpiece of this local observance is the veneration of the saint's head and right hand, which are brought from Sant'Apollinare in Classe to the Cathedral for public devotion. The Solemn Mass draws the faithful from across the archdiocese to honor the bishop-martyr whom tradition says was consecrated by St. Peter himself and who gave his life for the faith after decades of persecution.

Feast of St. Vitalis — April 28

The martyrdom of St. Vitalis in 171 AD—buried alive at "the Palm-tree" during the persecution of Marcus Aurelius—is commemorated at the basilica built over his tomb. San Vitale hosts special liturgies honoring this early Milanese martyr whose cult spread to Ravenna and whose burial site became the foundation for one of the supreme achievements of Christian architecture.

Optional Memorial of St. Peter Chrysologus — July 30

The Universal Church honors this fifth-century bishop and Doctor of the Church, whose eloquent homilies earned him the title "Golden Word," with an Optional Memorial. Born around 380, Peter served as Bishop of Ravenna from 433 until his death around 450, guiding the see during the transformative era of Galla Placidia. His surviving sermons remain studied for their theological depth and rhetorical brilliance.

Feast of St. Romuald — June 19

The founder of the Camaldolese Order, born to a noble Ravenna family in 951, is commemorated on the anniversary of the translation of his relics. After fleeing to Sant'Apollinare in Classe at age twenty to do penance for his father's sin of murder, Romuald received visions of St. Apollinaris that set him on a monastic path culminating in the foundation of Camaldoli in 1012. His feast recalls Ravenna's role in launching one of the great monastic reform movements.

Dante Memorial — September 13–14

The anniversary of Dante Alighieri's death (September 13, 1321) and funeral (September 14) occasions special observances at San Francesco and his adjacent tomb. Each evening from April through October, volunteers read a canto of the Divine Comedy at 6 PM, and on the anniversary itself, thirteen bells toll at sunset. Pope Benedict XV encouraged the restoration of San Francesco for the sixth centenary in 1921, and Pope Francis's 2021 apostolic letter Candor Lucis Aeternae renewed papal attention to the poet's Ravenna connection.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Albergo Cappello ⭐⭐⭐ — Renaissance palazzo dating to 1468 with original frescoes, wood-beamed ceilings, and seven romantic rooms; five minutes' walk from San Vitale and Galla Placidia. Reserve this hotel Hotel Centrale Byron ⭐⭐⭐ — Fifty-two rooms in a historic building on the pedestrian zone, adjacent to Piazza del Popolo and ten minutes' walk from the UNESCO sites. Reserve this hotel

🚗 Getting There

By Air: Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) lies 90 km northwest of Ravenna. The Marconi Express connects the airport to Bologna Centrale station in 7 minutes (€11), from which regional trains reach Ravenna in approximately 1 hour 15 minutes. Forlì Luigi Ridolfi Airport (FRL), 30 km southwest, offers limited connections. By Train: Ravenna station sits 200 meters from the historic center. Regional trains connect to Bologna Centrale (1 hour 15 minutes), Rimini (1 hour), and Ferrara (1 hour). From Venice, change at Ferrara for a total journey of 3.5–4 hours. The station provides direct access to Sant'Apollinare Nuovo and the Arian Baptistery within a ten-minute walk. By Car: The A14 autostrada connects Ravenna to Bologna (80 km northwest) and Rimini (55 km southeast). The historic center lies within a restricted traffic zone (ZTL). Free parking is available at Piazzale Aldo Moro behind the train station (109 spaces, 15 minutes' walk to Piazza del Popolo). Largo Giustiniano (318 spaces, €3/day) offers closer access to San Vitale and Galla Placidia.

📚 Further Reading

Books: Bovini, Giuseppe. Ravenna Mosaics — Comprehensive photographic study of the city's Byzantine heritage by a leading Italian art historian. Online Resources: Mosaics — Encyclopedic article on Christian mosaic art with substantial coverage of Ravenna's churches. (EWTN) Byzantine Art — Overview of Byzantine artistic tradition including Ravenna's role in the "First Golden Age." (EWTN)

🔗 Useful Links

Opera di Religione della Diocesi di Ravenna — Official diocesan site managing the UNESCO monuments, with hours, ticket booking, and visitor information. Candor Lucis Aeternae — Pope Francis's 2021 apostolic letter on Dante Alighieri, with significant references to Ravenna and San Francesco. (Vatican.va)

🥾 Pilgrim Routes

Via Romea Germanica — Ravenna lies on Stage 23 and 24 of this ancient pilgrim road from Stade in Germany to Rome, as recorded by Abbot Albert of Stade in 1236. Pilgrims walking south from Casalborsetti pass through the pine forest of San Vitale—formerly owned by the Benedictine monks of the basilica—before entering the city (18 km). The following stage continues to Forlì (30 km), climbing toward the Apennines and the Serra Pass into Tuscany. The route is well-marked with orange arrows and the shepherd's crook symbol of the Via Romea Germanica.

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Bologna (80 km) — The Basilica of San Petronio and the Santo Stefano complex, where Bishop Petronius built a replica of Christ's tomb in the fifth century. Pomposa Abbey (50 km) — The great Benedictine abbey where Guido d'Arezzo developed modern musical notation; the Via Romea Germanica passes through on its way to Ravenna. Ferrara (50 km) — The cathedral of San Giorgio and the monastery where the Council of Ferrara-Florence (1438–1439) briefly reunited East and West. Padua (120 km) — The Basilica of Sant'Antonio houses the incorrupt tongue of the great Franciscan preacher, drawing millions of pilgrims annually. Venice (145 km) — The Basilica of San Marco preserves the Evangelist's relics and Byzantine mosaics that owe much to Ravenna's artistic legacy.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"In composing his poem, Dante had no other purpose than to raise mortals from the state of misery, that is from the state of sin, and lead them to the state of happiness, that is of divine grace."

— Pope Francis, Candor Lucis Aeternae, 2021