The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to La Verna, Italy

La Verna is the sacred mountain sanctuary where Saint Francis of Assisi received the stigmata in 1224, making it one of Christianity's most holy pilgrimage sites.

On a rugged cliff in the Tuscan Apennines, 1,128 meters above the Casentino Valley, stands the sanctuary where St. Francis of Assisi was marked with the wounds of Christ. The mountain itself—with its sheer precipices and deep fissures in the rock—had long been the subject of local legend: the cracks, they said, had split open at the moment of Christ's death. Francis knew this tradition when Count Orlando di Chiusi offered him the mountain in 1213, and he recognized it as a place where heaven and earth drew close. Francis returned to La Verna five times over the following years, drawn by its austere beauty and the silence that wrapped around the ancient beech and fir forests. His last ascent came in August 1224, when he withdrew for a forty-day fast in preparation for the feast of St. Michael. He was tired, ill, and nearly blind—but still burning with desire to share in the sufferings of Christ. According to St. Bonaventure's account, Francis prayed for two graces: to feel in his body the pain that Christ endured on the cross, and to know in his heart the love that moved Christ to endure it. On September 14, the feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, a seraph with six wings descended from heaven, bearing between its wings the figure of a crucified man. When the vision faded, the wounds of Christ appeared on Francis's hands, feet, and side—the first documented stigmata in Christian history. Today, La Verna remains one of the most significant Franciscan pilgrimage sites in the world, second only to Assisi itself. The sanctuary complex has grown around the places where Francis prayed and received his mysterious gift, yet the mountain retains the atmosphere of solitude that first drew the Poverello here. Dante immortalized it in Paradiso, calling it a crudo sasso—a "naked crag"—where Francis received "from Christ the final seal." Eight centuries later, pilgrims still climb to the summit seeking what Francis sought: an encounter with the crucified Christ.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The story of La Verna begins in 1213, when Francis was preaching at the castle of San Leo and a local nobleman named Count Orlando di Chiusi listened with such fervor that he sought the friar out afterward. "I have in Tuscany a mountain called La Verna," Orlando told him. "It is very lonely and wild, and perfectly suited for someone who wishes to do penance in a place removed from the world." On May 8, 1213, the count formally donated the mountain to Francis and his brothers. Francis was immediately drawn to the mountain's harsh beauty—the biting cold, the jagged rocks, the dense forests where birdsong echoed through the mist. He established a small hermitage with a few cells and, between 1216 and 1218, built the chapel of Santa Maria degli Angeli, naming it after his beloved church in Assisi. Over the following years, he returned repeatedly for extended periods of prayer and contemplation. The decisive moment came during Francis's final visit in the summer of 1224. Brother Leo, his closest companion and confessor, accompanied him to the mountain, along with Brothers Masseo, Angelo, and Illuminato. As Francis began his forty-day fast, he opened the Gospel three times seeking divine guidance; each time, the book fell open to passages about Christ's Passion. Francis understood that he was being called to share not only Christ's poverty and humility, but his suffering. What happened next was witnessed by Brother Leo alone. On the morning of September 14, Leo found Francis in a state of profound ecstasy, marked with wounds that would not heal until his death two years later. The flesh of his hands and feet appeared to have been pierced by nails—with what Thomas of Celano described as "certain small pieces of flesh like the ends of nails bent and driven back"—and his right side bore a wound as if made by a lance. For the remaining two years of his life, Francis tried to conceal these marks, wearing shoes and keeping his hands wrapped, but he could not hide the blood that frequently stained his habit. After the stigmata, Francis remained at La Verna long enough to compose the Laudes Dei Altissimi (Praises of the Most High God) and the Canticle of Brother Sun—prayers that burst forth from his wounded heart in thanksgiving for creation and Creator alike. When he finally descended the mountain in October 1224, he knew he would never return. The site quickly became a place of pilgrimage. Pope Alexander IV placed La Verna under papal protection, and in 1260 a church was built and consecrated in the presence of St. Bonaventure, who would later write the definitive account of Francis's life and stigmata. Around 1263, Count Simon of Battifolle constructed the Chapel of the Stigmata on the exact spot where Brother Leo had found Francis marked with Christ's wounds. The main basilica was begun in 1348 and completed in 1509, while the Corridor of the Stigmata—connecting the convent to the chapel—was built between 1578 and 1582. The friars were expelled twice following suppressions of religious orders in 1810 and 1866, but returned each time to continue their eight-century vigil. In 1921, Pope Benedict XV elevated the sanctuary to the rank of minor basilica. In September 2024, the Franciscan family gathered at La Verna to celebrate the 800th anniversary of the stigmata, and Pope Francis composed a new prayer to be recited at the Chapel of the Stigmata: "Saint Francis, man wounded by love, crucified in body and in spirit, we look to you, decorated with the holy stigmata, to learn how to love the Lord Jesus and our brothers and sisters with your love, with your passion."

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in La Verna

The sanctuary complex sits perched on the southern flank of Mount Penna, wrapped in the ancient beech and fir forests that the Franciscan friars have preserved for centuries. Pilgrims enter through an arched gateway and climb a few steps to reach the Quadrante, the large paved square that serves as the sanctuary's central gathering place. A sundial on the basilica's bell tower gives the square its name, bearing the inscription: "If the sun looks at me, I'll show you the time." A wooden cross planted in the rock overlooks the Casentino Valley far below.

Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta

Local Name: Basilica Maggiore Address: Via del Santuario della Verna, 45, 52010 Chiusi della Verna AR, Italy GPS Coordinates: 43.7070496, 11.9311280 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: https://www.laverna.it Dedication: Our Lady of the Assumption Historical Note: Construction began in 1348, in the aftermath of the Black Death, and continued for over 150 years until completion in 1509. The basilica was built in a Renaissance-Baroque style, with a Latin cross plan and vaulted ceilings. Pope Benedict XV elevated it to minor basilica status in 1921. Spiritual Importance: The interior houses an extraordinary collection of glazed terracotta works by Andrea della Robbia and his workshop, created between 1475 and 1493. The Annunciation (1475), the Nativity, and the monumental Ascension represent some of the finest examples of this distinctly Tuscan sacred art. The Chapel of Relics (Cappella delle Reliquie) preserves objects that belonged to St. Francis: the habit he wore when he received the stigmata, a whip he used for penance, his walking stick, and—most precious of all—a linen cloth stained with blood from his stigmata wounds. This relic is carried in procession during the sanctuary's major celebrations.

Chapel of Santa Maria degli Angeli

Local Name: Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angeli Dedication: Our Lady of the Angels Historical Note: This small chapel represents the original heart of the hermitage, built by St. Francis himself between 1216 and 1218. He named it after the Portiuncula, his beloved chapel at the foot of Assisi. The bell tower still houses the original bell donated by St. Bonaventure in 1257. Spiritual Importance: Each day at 3:00 PM, the friars process from this chapel to the Chapel of the Stigmata, continuing a tradition that began in 1431. According to beloved legend, one winter night a terrible snowstorm prevented the friars from making their procession. The next morning, they found footprints in the snow showing that the forest animals had carried out the procession in their stead—and so the friars built the covered corridor to ensure the procession would never again be interrupted.

Chapel of the Stigmata

Local Name: Cappella delle Stimmate GPS Coordinates: 43.7065000, 11.9315000 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Dedication: The Sacred Stigmata of St. Francis Historical Note: Built around 1263 by Count Simon of Battifolle on the exact spot where Brother Leo found St. Francis after he received the stigmata. The single-nave chapel is covered by a cross vault, and a brass plaque in the floor marks the precise location where the miracle occurred. Spiritual Importance: This is the most sacred place in all of La Verna—the very spot where Francis was sealed with the wounds of Christ. Andrea della Robbia's monumental Crucifixion (1481), a masterpiece of glazed terracotta showing Christ on the cross with the mourning Virgin, St. John, St. Francis, and St. Jerome, serves as the altarpiece. Above the entrance door, a tondo from della Robbia's workshop depicts the Madonna and Child. The chapel represents the culmination of the daily procession, when pilgrims and friars together commemorate the mystery of Francis's transformation into a living image of the Crucified.

Corridor of the Stigmata

Local Name: Corridoio delle Stimmate Built between 1578 and 1582 to protect the friars during their daily procession, this long covered walkway connects the convent to the Chapel of the Stigmata. The walls are adorned with 21 frescoes depicting scenes from St. Francis's life, particularly his time at La Verna. The original 17th-century frescoes by Fra' Emanuele da Como deteriorated quickly in the mountain climate and were replaced by the current paintings by Baccio Maria Bacci between 1929 and 1962.

Sasso Spicco

Local Name: Sasso Spicco ("The Jutting Rock") This massive boulder appears to defy gravity as it juts out from the mountainside, creating a natural shelter beneath it. Here St. Francis withdrew for solitary prayer and meditation on the mystery of the cross. The rock creates an enclosed space that feels both intimate and exposed to the elements—a physical expression of the spiritual vulnerability Francis cultivated. Brother Matteo Brena, secretary for the 800th anniversary celebrations, explained: "Francis loved to immerse himself and pray… He meditates on the mystery of the cross, immersing himself, making himself small and humble." A wooden cross now marks the spot where generations of pilgrims have followed in Francis's path of contemplation.

The Precipice and Monumental Forest

Local Name: Il Precipizio / Foresta Monumentale A narrow stone path from the Chapel of the Stigmata leads to a dramatic rock cliff called the Precipice, where according to tradition the devil tried to tempt St. Francis. The view from here sweeps across the entire Casentino Valley. The surrounding forest has been preserved by the Franciscan friars since the 13th century, maintaining the same ancient beech and fir trees that Francis would have known. Deer, roe deer, wild boar, and wolves still inhabit these woods, along with eagles, owls, and peregrine falcons.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

September 17 – Feast of the Sacred Stigmata Sanctuary of La Verna. The most important day in the sanctuary's calendar, commemorating the anniversary of St. Francis receiving the stigmata in 1224. The preceding night features a vigil of prayer, and pilgrims from across the world gather for the solemn procession and Mass. The relic of St. Francis's blood is carried in procession, and the Minister General of the Franciscan Order traditionally presides over the celebrations.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Pilgrim Hospitality

Foresteria del Santuario della Verna 📍 Address: Via del Santuario della Verna, 45, 52010 Chiusi della Verna AR, Italy 🌐 Website: https://www.laverna.it/vivi-la-verna/foresteria/ The sanctuary guesthouse offers rooms for individuals, families, and groups seeking to pray with the friars. Single, double, triple, and quadruple rooms are available with heating and private bathrooms. A pilgrim dormitory with 16 beds provides a more austere option. Reception is open 8:00-18:30. Full board available.

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Da Giovanna ⭐⭐⭐ 📍 Address: Via Roma, 60, 52010 Chiusi della Verna AR, Italy 🔗 Booking.com: da-giovanna-chiusi-della-verna Family-run hotel in the village of Chiusi della Verna, approximately 30 minutes' walk from the sanctuary via the historic pilgrim path. Rooms with balconies and mountain views. Restaurant serving Tuscan specialties. Popular starting point for pilgrims walking the Way of St. Francis.

2-Star Hotels

Albergo Bellavista ⭐⭐ 📍 Address: Chiusi della Verna, AR, Italy 🔗 Booking.com: albergo-bellavista Simple hotel with garden, terrace, restaurant, and bar. Family rooms available.

🚗 Getting There

By Air: The nearest major airport is Florence Airport (Aeroporto di Firenze-Peretola), approximately 60 km west. From Florence, the sanctuary is reachable in about 2 hours by car. By Train: The closest train stations are Arezzo and Bibbiena. From Bibbiena, local buses connect to Chiusi della Verna (approximately 30 km). By Bus: Regional buses serve Chiusi della Verna. Pilgrims should alight at La Beccia, from where a 650-meter pedestrian path climbs through the ancient entrance to the sanctuary—the traditional approach that pilgrims have used for centuries. By Car: From the A1 motorway (Florence-Rome), exit at Arezzo and follow signs toward Pieve Santo Stefano and Chiusi della Verna. The final approach winds through the Casentino forests. Parking is available near the sanctuary. Note: The SP208 road from Pieve Santo Stefano may have periodic closures for maintenance; check current conditions and consider the alternative route via Caprese Michelangelo.

📚 Further Reading

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🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

  • Assisi – 75 km south. The birthplace of St. Francis and headquarters of the Franciscan Order. Home to the Basilica of St. Francis and the Portiuncula.
  • Cortona – 60 km south. Ancient Etruscan hill town with the shrine of St. Margaret of Cortona, the "Second Magdalene."
  • Camaldoli – 20 km north. Benedictine hermitage and monastery founded in 1012 by St. Romuald, set deep in the Casentino forests.
  • Caprese Michelangelo – 15 km east. Birthplace of Michelangelo Buonarroti, who drew inspiration from the landscape around La Verna when painting the Sistine Chapel.

🥾 Pilgrim Routes

Way of St. Francis (Via di Francesco) La Verna serves as the traditional starting point for the northern route of the Via di Francesco, the 500-km pilgrim path from Florence to Rome that traces the footsteps of St. Francis through Umbria and Lazio. The first stage descends from the sanctuary through the forest to Pieve Santo Stefano—15 km of mostly downhill walking through the same landscape Francis would have traveled. The path continues through Sansepolcro, Città di Castello, and Gubbio before reaching Assisi, then onward to Rieti and eventually Rome.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"On this Holy Mountain, St Francis lived within himself the profound unity of sequela, imitatio, and conformatio Christi. And this is how he says to us that it is not enough to call oneself Christian to be Christian, nor even to seek to do good deeds. It is necessary to conform oneself to Jesus with a slow, gradual transformation of one's being into the image of the Lord."
— Pope Benedict XVI, Address for the Shrine of La Verna, 13 May 2012