The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Montaione, Italy

Home to the Jerusalem of Tuscany—the Sacro Monte di San Vivaldo—where eighteen forest chapels with Renaissance terracotta tableaux bring the Holy Land to pilgrims who cannot travel to Palestine.

✝️ Significance

In the chestnut forests of Tuscany, between Florence and the Etruscan hills of Volterra, a hermit once made his home inside a hollow tree. When hunters found Blessed Vivaldo Stricchi kneeling in death within that trunk in 1320, they could not have imagined that two centuries later, Franciscan friars would transform the surrounding woodland into a substitute Jerusalem—eighteen chapels reproducing the stations of Christ's Passion for pilgrims who could not reach the Holy Land under Turkish rule. The Sacro Monte di San Vivaldo remains Tuscany's only example of the Sacred Mountain tradition more commonly found in Piedmont and Lombardy. Pope Leo X granted plenary indulgences to its pilgrims in 1516, offering the same spiritual benefits as a journey to Jerusalem itself. The life-sized terracotta sculptures within each chapel, crafted by artists trained in the workshops of Andrea del Verrocchio, constitute one of the most significant Renaissance devotional complexes in central Italy. Montaione itself preserves a medieval hilltop character little changed since the 13th century, when glassmakers first established workshops in its narrow streets. The parish church of San Regolo, with a Madonna attributed to the school of Cimabue, anchors the historic center, while the surrounding countryside offers a quieter alternative to the more heavily visited towns of San Gimignano and Volterra just minutes away.

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🏛️ Pilgrim Sites

Sacro Monte di San Vivaldo (Jerusalem of Tuscany)

Local Name: Gerusalemme di San Vivaldo Address: Via San Vivaldo 11, 50050 San Vivaldo, Montaione (FI) GPS: 43.5261, 10.8997 → Open in Google Maps Website: visitmontaione.com Dedication: Blessed Vivaldo Stricchi Historical Note: The origins trace to the early 14th century, when Vivaldo Stricchi—a Franciscan tertiary from San Gimignano who had spent twenty years nursing his leprous mentor Blessed Bartolo—withdrew into the forest called Boscotondo to live as a hermit. He made his cell inside a massive hollow chestnut tree, barely large enough for a man to kneel. On May 1, 1320, a hunter whose hounds circled the tree discovered Vivaldo dead within, still kneeling in prayer. A chapel rose on the site by 1325, followed by a church in 1355. When Franciscan Observants took possession in 1497, Fra' Tommaso da Firenze—who had made the actual pilgrimage to Jerusalem—conceived the plan to recreate the topography of the Holy City in this Tuscan forest. Between 1500 and 1516, he directed construction of 34 chapels arranged according to the 15th-century layout of Jerusalem, complete with astronomical orientation matching the original sites. Pope Leo X recognized the endeavor with a Pontifical Brief in 1516, granting pilgrims to San Vivaldo the same indulgences as those who reached Palestine. Spiritual Importance: Eighteen chapels survive today (thirteen original, five added later), each housing life-sized polychrome terracotta sculpture groups depicting scenes from Christ's life and Passion. The sculptors—including Giovanni della Robbia, Benedetto Buglioni, and Agnolo di Polo, trained in Verrocchio's Florentine workshop—created figures of extraordinary emotional power. The Annunciation, Last Supper, Crucifixion, and Resurrection unfold along forest paths exactly as the corresponding sites unfold along the Via Dolorosa. The Franciscan convent remains active, and the friars maintain the tradition of hospitality to pilgrims that began five centuries ago.

Church and Convent of San Vivaldo

The main church was erected at the site of the chestnut tree where Vivaldo died. The first chapel on the right contains his 15th-century reliquary and sepulchral urn. A ceramic statue of St. Catherine of Alexandria and San Vivaldo by Benedetto Buglioni stands nearby, while the altarpiece by Raffaellino del Garbo depicts the Virgin in Glory with Saints John the Baptist, Jerome, Francis, and Vivaldo. The 14th-century side chapel—once the original church of Santa Maria a Camporena—preserves frescoes honoring the Franciscan order, including St. Clare repelling Saracens at San Damiano. The organ dates to 1736, built by Francesco Domenico Calcioli of Lucca.

Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre

The culminating station of the pilgrimage route, reproducing the tomb of Christ as it appeared to 15th-century Jerusalem pilgrims. The terracotta figures of the sleeping soldiers and the angel announcing the Resurrection rank among the finest works in the complex.

Chiesa di San Regolo

Address: Piazza della Repubblica, 50050 Montaione (FI) GPS: 43.5528, 10.9147 → Open in Google Maps Historical Note: The parish church of Montaione dates to the 13th century in its Romanesque origins, though the current structure reflects a 1635 rebuilding. German bombing in 1944 caused significant damage, requiring postwar restoration. The church preserves a painting of the Madonna attributed to the school of Cimabue. Spiritual Importance: The church anchors the spiritual life of Montaione's historic center, its bell tower visible from the surrounding countryside.

Santuario della Pietrina

A small hilltop church famous for a venerated painting of the Madonna and Child. The panoramic views extend to the slopes of Volterra.

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📅 Annual Celebrations

May 1 – Feast of Blessed Vivaldo: The anniversary of the hermit's death, celebrated with special Mass at the sanctuary and processions through the forest chapels. Holy Week: The chapel stations take on particular significance during Holy Week, when pilgrims walk the Via Dolorosa recreated in the Tuscan forest. Summer Classical Concerts: The cloister of the Franciscan convent hosts evening concerts of classical music during July and August. Christmas Season (November 30 – January 6): The sanctuary hosts a Christmas village and nativity events, including children's workshops organized by the Franciscan friars.

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🛏️ Where to Stay

Hotels

Hotel Le Macine ⭐⭐⭐ Viale Italia 25, 50050 Montaione hotellemacine.com · Book on Booking.com Family-run hotel in Montaione's historic center with 14 rooms, on-site restaurant "Il Cucco," garden terrace, and panoramic views. Half an hour from both San Gimignano and Volterra.

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🚗 Getting There

By Car: Montaione lies roughly equidistant from Florence (35 km northeast), Siena (40 km southeast), and Pisa (60 km northwest). From the Florence-Siena motorway (Raccordo Autostradale Firenze-Siena), exit at Poggibonsi and follow signs toward Certaldo and Montaione. The Sacro Monte di San Vivaldo is located 5 km from Montaione center, following signs toward Castelfalfi. Note: The road to San Vivaldo winds through forest; the sanctuary is not visible until you arrive at the parking area. Public transport does not serve the sanctuary directly. By Train: The nearest station is Castelfiorentino (15 km), on the Florence-Empoli-Siena line. From there, taxi or rental car is required. From Major Airports:

  • Florence Peretola (FLR): 50 km / 50 minutes
  • Pisa Galileo Galilei (PSA): 60 km / 1 hour

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🔗 Useful Links

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🧭 Nearby Pilgrim Destinations

San Gimignano (14 km / 20 minutes) – The medieval "city of towers" preserves the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta with Ghirlandaio frescoes, the church of Sant'Agostino, and the birthplace of Blessed Vivaldo's mentor, Blessed Bartolo. Volterra (20 km / 30 minutes) – Ancient Etruscan city and seat of the diocese, with the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Baptistery of San Giovanni. San Galgano (45 km / 50 minutes) – The roofless Cistercian abbey and the sword-in-stone hermitage on Monte Siepi, where St. Galgano thrust his sword into rock as a symbol of renunciation. Siena (40 km / 45 minutes) – The great Gothic cathedral, St. Catherine's sanctuary, and the medieval pilgrimage hospital of Santa Maria della Scala.

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ℹ️ Practical Information

San Vivaldo Opening Hours: Visits by reservation only.

  • Monday–Saturday: 15:00–19:00
  • Sundays and holidays: 10:00–19:00
  • Maximum 5 people per guided visit
  • Contact: Tourist Office +39 0571 699255

Mass Times at San Vivaldo:

  • Monday: 8:00
  • Tuesday–Saturday: 18:00
  • Sunday: 11:00 and 18:00

Guided Tours: Reservation required. Guides (€14–35) provide historical and spiritual context for the chapel stations. Best Time to Visit: Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) offer pleasant weather and smaller crowds. Holy Week draws more pilgrims to walk the stations. Summer evenings feature classical concerts in the cloister.

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🪶 Closing Reflection

"He led me through that blessed Land, which saw the historical presence of Jesus... I did it always as a pilgrim, in the name of God and of mankind."

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— Pope Francis, General Audience, May 28, 2014