According to ancient tradition, a small boat without oars or sails drifted across the Mediterranean sometime around 45 AD, carrying refugees from the Holy Land. Among its passengers were Mary Jacobina, sister of the Virgin Mary, and Mary Salome, mother of the apostles James and John. With them came their servant Sarah, a dark-skinned woman whom the Roma people would claim as their patron saint. The boat made landfall on the wild shores of the Camargue, that strange delta where the Rhone meets the sea in a landscape of salt marshes, white horses, and flocks of pink flamingos.
The village that grew around their landing place took its name from these holy women: Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the Holy Marys of the Sea. Its fortified church, rising from the flat marshland like a ship's prow, has drawn pilgrims for nearly a thousand years. Twice yearly, in May and October, the relics of the Three Marys are lowered from their chapel high above the nave, and carried in solemn procession to the Mediterranean shore. For the Roma of Europe, who gather by the thousands each May to honor Saint Sarah, it is among the most important pilgrimage sites in the world.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The legend of the boat from Palestine belongs to a broader tradition associating Provence with the earliest Christian missionaries. According to medieval accounts, the vessel also carried Mary Magdalene, Lazarus, Martha, and other disciples fleeing persecution in Jerusalem. Mary Magdalene is said to have evangelized Provence before retiring to the cave at Sainte-Baume, while Lazarus became the first bishop of Marseille. The tradition, though unverifiable historically, was deeply believed throughout the Middle Ages and shaped the religious identity of southern France.
The two Marys who remained in the Camargue, according to legend, lived as hermits near the shore, evangelizing the local population until their deaths. Their servant Sarah stayed with them, and her tomb beneath the church became a focus of veneration. The earliest church on the site may date to the sixth century, though the present fortified structure was built in the ninth through twelfth centuries to defend against Saracen raids. The church's massive walls, crenellated roofline, and watchtower give it the appearance of a fortress as much as a sanctuary.
In 1448, King Rene of Provence ordered excavations beneath the church that uncovered what were proclaimed to be the relics of Mary Jacobina and Mary Salome. The discovery sparked a surge of pilgrimage that has continued to the present day. The relics were placed in a chapel above the apse, accessible only by a narrow staircase, where pilgrims must climb to venerate them. Below, in the crypt, the statue of Sarah draws a steady stream of devoted visitors, her dark face illuminated by hundreds of candles.
The Roma connection to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer crystallized in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, though its roots are older. Sarah, described in some traditions as an Egyptian servant and in others as a local woman who welcomed the boat, became identified with the Roma people, who saw in her dark complexion and outsider status a reflection of their own experience. The annual May pilgrimage, which brings thousands of Roma from across Europe, features the dramatic procession of Sarah's statue into the sea, a reenactment of her welcome of the arriving saints.
Pope John Paul II recognized the importance of this pilgrimage when he met with Roma leaders during his 1981 visit to the region. The Church has sought to integrate the popular devotion to Saint Sarah, who was never officially canonized, with the liturgical celebration of the two Marys. The result is one of France's most colorful and emotionally charged pilgrimage events.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Eglise des Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Church of the Holy Marys of the Sea
The fortified Romanesque church dominating the village skyline has served pilgrims since the twelfth century. Its severe exterior, with massive stone walls rising windowless for most of their height, was designed to resist both Saracen raids and the fierce Mistral winds. The single nave, covered by a barrel vault, leads to the raised choir where a narrow staircase ascends to the chapel containing the reliquary of Saints Mary Jacobina and Mary Salome.
The reliquary, a painted wooden chest, is lowered by ropes through a hole in the chapel floor during the annual pilgrimages, allowing the faithful in the nave below to venerate the relics. The walls of the chapel are covered with ex-votos, thanksgiving offerings from pilgrims who attribute healings and favors to the intercession of the Two Marys. A well in the nave, said to have been blessed by the saints, was long believed to have healing properties.
The rooftop terrace, accessible by stairs, offers panoramic views over the Camargue wetlands and the Mediterranean. Pilgrims traditionally climb to this vantage point to survey the landscape where the boat is said to have made landfall.
Crypte de Sainte Sarah
Crypt of Saint Sarah
Beneath the church, a narrow crypt houses the statue of Saint Sarah, or Sara la Kali (Sarah the Black) as she is known to the Roma. The small space is perpetually lit by hundreds of candles, and the statue is draped in colorful robes and cloaks offered by devotees. The walls are covered with photographs, letters, and mementos left by pilgrims, many of Roma origin.
The atmosphere in the crypt is intense and intimate. Pilgrims touch the statue, kiss its hem, and pray with evident fervor. During the May pilgrimage, when Roma families from across Europe crowd into the space, the devotion reaches a fever pitch. Though Sarah was never formally canonized and her historical existence remains uncertain, the strength of popular devotion has made her crypt one of the most emotionally charged spaces in any French church.
Chapelle des Saintes
Chapel of the Holy Marys
High above the nave, accessible only by a steep staircase, this small chapel contains the reliquary of Mary Jacobina and Mary Salome. The walls are covered with ex-voto paintings and plaques expressing gratitude for favors received. The cramped space, illuminated by candles, creates an atmosphere of medieval piety remarkably preserved into the modern era.
During the October pilgrimage, only the relics of the Two Marys are processed. During the May pilgrimage, the procession includes both the reliquary from this chapel and the statue of Sarah from the crypt below, creating a link between the official liturgical veneration and the popular devotion.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Pilgrimage of the Roma (May 24-25)
The great gathering that transforms this small village into one of Europe's most remarkable religious spectacles. Roma families begin arriving days in advance, camping in the surrounding marshland. On May 24, the statue of Saint Sarah is carried from the crypt through the streets and into the sea, accompanied by Gardians (Camargue cowboys) on white horses and by Roma musicians playing flamenco and traditional music. On May 25, the relics of the Two Marys are lowered from their chapel and processed to the shore with similar ceremony. The Archbishop of Aix-en-Provence presides over the liturgies. For many Roma, this pilgrimage is the most important religious event of the year.
October Pilgrimage (Weekend nearest October 22)
A smaller but still significant pilgrimage honoring Mary Jacobina and Mary Salome. The relics are lowered from their chapel and carried in procession to the sea, where the bishop blesses the Mediterranean and prays for the safety of sailors and fishermen. The October event is more traditionally Catholic in character than the May celebration, though it shares the same ritual structure.
Feast of the Assumption — August 15
The Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is celebrated with special solemnity in this church so closely associated with Mary's relatives. Pilgrims gather for Mass and to venerate the relics.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hotel de Cacharel ⭐⭐⭐ — Charming hotel in traditional Camargue style, set among the marshlands with views of white horses and pink flamingos. Features swimming pool and restaurant serving local cuisine. Ideal for pilgrims who want to experience the unique Camargue landscape. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Le Mas de la Fouque ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Luxury eco-lodge on the edge of the Camargue wetlands, offering refined accommodations with deep respect for the natural environment. Features spa, gourmet restaurant, and organized excursions. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel Les Arnelles ⭐⭐⭐ — Family-run hotel with pool, located on the beach road. Simple comfortable rooms and friendly service make it popular with returning pilgrims. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Camping Le Clos du Rhone (campsite) — For pilgrims seeking budget accommodation or the communal atmosphere of the traditional Roma encampment experience. Website
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Marseille Provence Airport (MRS) is the nearest major airport, approximately 80 km east. Nimes-Ales-Camargue-Cevennes Airport is closer (45 km) but has limited flights. Car rental is recommended for exploring the Camargue region.
By Train: The nearest train station is Arles (35 km), with connections from Paris, Lyon, Marseille, and Avignon. From Arles, local buses operate to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, though service is limited. Consider taking a taxi or arranging transport in advance, especially during pilgrimage times.
By Car: From Arles, take the D570 south through the Camargue (approximately 40 minutes). From Marseille, take the A55 and A54 toward Arles, then the D570 (approximately 1 hour 30 minutes). Parking is available in the village, though spaces fill quickly during pilgrimages.
By Bus: Envia buses connect Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer with Arles several times daily. Service is more frequent in summer but may be limited during the off-season.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Sarah Jane Boss, Mary: The Complete Resource — Comprehensive study of Marian devotion including the traditions of the Three Marys.
Ian Bradley, Pilgrimage: A Spiritual and Cultural Journey — Includes discussion of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and its unique pilgrimage traditions.
Online Resources:
Sanctuary of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer — Official sanctuary website with pilgrimage schedules and information.
Catholic Encyclopedia: St. Mary Salome — Historical and theological context for devotion to the "other Marys."
🎥 Recommended Videos
Roma Pilgrimage at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer — Documentary footage of the May pilgrimage and procession of Saint Sarah.
The Camargue: Land of Salt and Faith — French documentary exploring the region's unique religious and cultural heritage.
🔗 Useful Links
Sanctuary of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer — Official sanctuary with Mass times and pilgrimage calendar.
Camargue Tourism — Regional tourism information for planning your visit.
Arles Tourism — Information on the nearby city with Roman ruins and connections to Van Gogh.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Via Tolosana / GR 653 — This Camino de Santiago route passes through nearby Saint-Gilles, and pilgrims walking to Compostela can make a detour to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer before continuing west.
Camargue Walking Trails — Several marked trails cross the Camargue wetlands, allowing pilgrims to approach the village on foot through the unique landscape of salt marshes and lagoons.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Saint-Gilles (30 km north) — The abbey church with its UNESCO-listed Romanesque facade marks the starting point of the Via Tolosana to Santiago de Compostela.
Avignon (70 km north) — The Palace of the Popes and the bridge of Saint Benezet, center of medieval Christendom during the Avignon Papacy.
Marseille (100 km east) — Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica and the Abbey of Saint-Victor, with traditions linking to Mary Magdalene and Lazarus.
Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (120 km east) — The great Gothic basilica housing the relics of Mary Magdalene, according to Provencal tradition a fellow passenger on the boat from Palestine.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"The Church has constantly honored the women who came to the tomb of Christ, those courageous women who remained at the foot of the cross when the apostles fled." — Pope St. John Paul II, Angelus Address, April 1982
