The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume, France

Sacred grotto where Mary Magdalene lived as a hermit for 30 years, one of Christianity's oldest pilgrimage sites, drawing over 500,000 visitors annually to the Dominican-run sanctuary.

High in the limestone cliffs of a sacred Provençal mountain, a natural cave has drawn pilgrims for nearly two thousand years—the place where, according to ancient tradition, Mary Magdalene spent the final thirty years of her life in prayer and contemplation. Whether you're climbing the ancient Chemin des Roys that kings and popes once walked, seeking the presence of the "Apostle to the Apostles" in her hermit's grotto, or simply captivated by one of Europe's oldest Christian pilgrimage sites, La Sainte-Baume offers an encounter with living tradition in a landscape of extraordinary beauty. The story begins around AD 47, when, according to Provençal tradition, a small boat without sail or rudder arrived on the shores of what is now Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Aboard were some of Jesus's closest companions, fleeing persecution in the Holy Land: Mary Magdalene, her siblings Martha and Lazarus, Maximinus (one of the Seventy Disciples), and others. While Lazarus became the first bishop of Marseille and Martha tamed the legendary Tarasque at Tarascon, Mary Magdalene withdrew to a cave high in the mountains southeast of the city. There, in what the Provençal language calls a "baume" (cave), she lived as a hermit for three decades, sustained, legend says, by angels who lifted her seven times daily to the summit now called Saint-Pilon. By the fifth century, John Cassian had established a priory at the site, and pilgrims were already climbing the mountain paths. The sanctuary flourished spectacularly in the thirteenth century when Charles II of Anjou, Count of Provence, discovered what were believed to be Mary Magdalene's relics at Saint-Maximin in 1279. Pope Boniface VIII entrusted the site to the Dominican Order in 1295, and the Chemin des Roys—the Kings' Path—was opened, lined with seven oratories depicting scenes from the saint's life. The path earned its name as French monarchs made the pilgrimage: Saint Louis IX in 1254, Charles VIII, François I, Louis XIV in 1660. The sanctuary was devastated during the upheavals of the 1790s, the Dominicans expelled, the grotto looted. But faith endured. In 1859, Father Henri-Dominique Lacordaire, the great Dominican preacher, returned the friars to La Sainte-Baume and rebuilt the hostelry. The grotto was reconsecrated in 1822, and pilgrims resumed their ascent. Today, over 500,000 visitors annually make their way to this remarkable site. The sanctuary complex includes the Dominican hostelry at the mountain's base, the sacred grotto carved into the cliff face 150 meters above, and the Chapel of Saint-Pilon at the summit with its 360-degree panoramas from the Mediterranean to the Alps. Dominican friars from the Toulouse province welcome pilgrims year-round, continuing the order's eight-century mission as guardians of Mary Magdalene's memory. As one friar observed: "At La Sainte-Baume, we get a bit of everything: mainstream Catholics, hikers on holiday, converts from Islam, sisters on pilgrimage, traditionalists, liberals—and even Jesuits." The 2,076-hectare forest surrounding the sanctuary—designated a "Forêt d'Exception" in 2018—contains 130 hectares of relic beech forest, an ecosystem unique in Provence. The cool, shaded path through ancient trees prepares pilgrims spiritually as it shields them physically from the Mediterranean sun. And since 2022, the newly inaugurated Chemin de Marie-Madeleine offers a 224-kilometer pilgrimage route from Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to Saint-Maximin, passing through La Sainte-Baume and connecting all the sites associated with the saint's legendary sojourn in Provence.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

Mary Magdalene emerges from the Gospels as one of Jesus's most devoted disciples. Delivered from seven demons, she became a faithful follower, stood at the foot of the Cross when others fled, and was the first witness to the Resurrection—earning her the title "Apostle to the Apostles" from Saint Thomas Aquinas. What happened after Pentecost? The canonical scriptures fall silent, but Provençal tradition fills the void with a remarkable narrative. According to this ancient tradition, persecution drove a small group of Jesus's closest companions from the Holy Land around AD 42-47. Cast adrift in a boat without oars or sail, they were guided by Providence to the shores of the Camargue. The group scattered across Provence: Lazarus to Marseille, Martha to Tarascon, Maximinus to Aix. Mary Magdalene, after preaching the Gospel in Marseille and reportedly living seven years in what is now the Abbey of Saint-Victor, withdrew to the solitude of the mountain cave. For thirty years, tradition holds, she lived in prayer and penance. Angels are said to have lifted her to the summit seven times daily for heavenly nourishment—hence the name Saint-Pilon ("little pillar") for the peak where a column once marked the spot. When she sensed death approaching, she descended to Saint-Maximin, received final Communion from Bishop Maximinus, and died. Her body was interred in a crypt that would become one of Christendom's most venerated tombs. The Sainte-Baume grotto attracted pilgrims from Christianity's earliest centuries. By the fifth century, John Cassian—the great monastic founder who brought Eastern spirituality to the West—had established a priory on the site. The cave itself was transformed into a sanctuary, the natural architecture of stone becoming a chapel where Mass could be celebrated. The pilgrimage exploded in significance in December 1279, when Charles II of Anjou, Count of Provence, discovered what were believed to be Mary Magdalene's relics in the crypt of Saint-Maximin. Chronicles speak of miraculous signs: a sweet fragrance filling the crypt, a green branch sprouting from the saint's tongue. Pope Boniface VIII authenticated the relics in 1295 and entrusted both the grotto sanctuary and the basilica at Saint-Maximin to the Dominican Order—a responsibility the friars have maintained, with interruptions, for over seven centuries. The Chemin des Roys was established, a pilgrimage path lined with seven stone oratories depicting scenes from Mary Magdalene's life. Built in 1516 at the initiative of Archbishop Ferrier of Arles, six of the original seven survive today, classified as Historic Monuments. The path earned its royal name through the illustrious pilgrims who walked it: Saint Louis IX in 1254, returning from the Seventh Crusade; Charles VIII; François I; and Louis XIV, who made the pilgrimage in 1660 and personally attended the solemn translation of the relics to a new sarcophagus blessed by Pope Urban VIII. Mary Magdalene became the secondary patroness of the Dominican Order, which had been founded in Toulouse, not far from Provence. The connection was natural: the Dominicans were originally known as the "Order of Penance," and Mary Magdalene embodied the transformative power of repentance and grace. Penitents who had committed grave sins could be sent to venerate her relics and receive absolution from a Dominican priest. The sanctuary was violently destroyed during the 1790s. The Dominicans were expelled, the grotto looted, the buildings razed. But the site's sacred character could not be erased from Provençal memory. In 1822, the grotto was reconsecrated. And in 1859, Father Henri-Dominique Lacordaire—the celebrated preacher who had restored the Dominican Order to France after its suppression—returned the friars to La Sainte-Baume and rebuilt the hostelry. Modern scientific analysis of the relics at Saint-Maximin suggests they belong to a Mediterranean woman from the first century who died around age ninety. Whether or not the Provençal tradition can be historically verified, the spiritual reality remains: for nearly two millennia, pilgrims have climbed this mountain seeking the presence of the woman who first proclaimed "I have seen the Lord."

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume

The sanctuary of La Sainte-Baume unfolds across a dramatic landscape where Mediterranean garrigue meets Alpine forest. The main pilgrimage route begins at the Dominican hostelry, climbs through the sacred forest, ascends 150 stone steps to the grotto, and can continue to the summit chapel. The various sites can be visited in a single day or savored over a longer retreat at the hostelry.

Grotte de Sainte-Marie-Madeleine (Mary Magdalene's Grotto)

Local Name: Grotte de la Sainte-Baume, La Grotte Address: Accessible only on foot from Hôtellerie de la Sainte-Baume, 2200 Route de Nans, 83640 Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume, France GPS Coordinates: 43.3270, 5.7641 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: saintebaume.org Dedication: Saint Mary Magdalene Historical Note: This natural cave, carved by erosion into the limestone cliff face, has been venerated as Mary Magdalene's hermitage since at least the fifth century. The cave was transformed into a chapel, with altar, tabernacle, and statues of Mary Magdalene, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Michael. The 150 stone steps leading to the grotto were constructed in 1914. Daily Mass is celebrated at 11:00 AM. Spiritual Importance: This is where Mary Magdalene is believed to have spent thirty years in prayer and contemplation. The grotto remains cool and damp year-round, a natural space for silence and recollection. A relic of the saint (a tibia bone and lock of hair, bequeathed to the Diocese of Fréjus in 1884) is preserved here. The esplanade outside the grotto offers sweeping views across Provence. Pilgrims often report sensing a profound peace in this space that has absorbed centuries of prayer.

Chapelle du Saint-Pilon

Local Name: Saint-Pilon Address: Summit of the Sainte-Baume massif, accessible via trail from the grotto (30-45 minutes) GPS Coordinates: 43.3238, 5.7626 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Historical Note: This small chapel stands at 949 meters altitude, on the spot where tradition says angels lifted Mary Magdalene seven times daily for heavenly nourishment. The name derives from the Provençal "pieloun" (pillar)—a stone column that once supported a statue of the saint borne by angels. The current chapel dates to the 14th century, with the most recent restoration in 2017. Spiritual Importance: The summit offers a 360-degree panorama: the Mediterranean Sea and the Maures massif to the south, the Alps to the north and east, the Sainte-Victoire mountain to the west. On clear days, the view extends from the Îles d'Hyères to the Calanques of Marseille. The exposed summit can be windswept and dramatic—pilgrims experience the elements that Mary Magdalene would have known in her years of solitary prayer.

Hôtellerie de la Sainte-Baume

Local Name: Hôtellerie Address: 2200 Route de Nans, 83640 Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume, France GPS Coordinates: 43.3391, 5.7535 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: saintebaume.org Historical Note: The hostelry at the foot of the mountain has welcomed pilgrims since the Dominicans first established their presence here in 1295. Destroyed during the upheavals of the 1790s, it was rebuilt by Father Henri-Dominique Lacordaire in the 1860s. The current buildings include guest rooms, dining facilities, a chapel, a gift shop, and a café. Spiritual Importance: This is where the pilgrimage begins and ends. The Dominican friars who run the hostelry offer not only accommodation but spiritual accompaniment. Special programs include retreats for families with disabled children, support for women who have experienced pregnancy loss, and an "Ecole de Vie" program for young adults seeking direction. The hostelry chapel offers daily prayer and a quieter alternative to the grotto for those unable to make the climb.

Chapelle des Parisiens

Local Name: Chapelle des Morts Address: Along the trail to Saint-Pilon, above the grotto GPS Coordinates: 43.3255, 5.7589 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Historical Note: Built in 1636 by Esprit Blanc, a general tax inspector whose Aix-en-Provence residence was called "La Parisienne," this small chapel was restored by the Compagnons du Devoir in 2007. It marks a resting point on the ascent to Saint-Pilon. Spiritual Importance: The chapel's alternate name, "Chapel of the Dead," invites reflection on mortality and the hope of resurrection that Mary Magdalene first proclaimed. Its location in the heart of the ancient beech forest creates a contemplative atmosphere.

The Seven Oratories (Chemin des Roys)

Local Name: Les Oratoires du Chemin des Roys Address: Along the pilgrimage path from Saint-Maximin to the grotto GPS Coordinates: Various points along the trail Historical Note: Built in 1516 at the initiative of Archbishop Ferrier of Arles, these stone oratories depict scenes from Mary Magdalene's life. Of the original seven, six have been rehabilitated and are classified as Historic Monuments. Only the seventh oratory, at the Col du Saint-Pilon, is missing. Spiritual Importance: Walking past these stations transforms the climb into a meditation on Mary Magdalene's journey—from sinner to saint, from witness of the Crucifixion to apostle of the Resurrection. The oratories remind pilgrims that they walk a path trodden by kings, popes, and saints.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

July 22 – Feast of Saint Mary Magdalene Grotte de Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. The principal feast of the sanctuary draws thousands of pilgrims for solemn Mass celebrated in the grotto, processions, and all-night vigils. The celebration honors the "Apostle to the Apostles" with particular solemnity at the site where she spent her final years. Pentecost Monday – Annual Pilgrimage Grotte de Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. A major annual gathering bringing pilgrims from across Provence and beyond. The pilgrimage includes Mass in the grotto and often a procession to the summit.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Hôtellerie de la Sainte-Baume 📍 Address: 2200 Route de Nans, 83640 Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume, France 🌐 Website: saintebaume.org Dominican-run pilgrim guesthouse at the foot of the mountain, offering rooms for individuals, couples, and families, with full board. Includes chapel, café, and gift shop. Open year-round except during the friars' annual retreat. Book directly for overnight stays or meal reservations. Gîte Communal de Nans-les-Pins 📍 Address: Nans-les-Pins, 83860, France Municipal gîte accommodating 15 pilgrims, located in the village below the sanctuary. Economical option for those walking the Chemin de Marie-Madeleine or GR9. Lou Pèbre d'Aï 📍 Address: Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume, France Local restaurant and inn near the sanctuary, offering regional Provençal cuisine. La Maison Rouge 📍 Address: Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume, France Valeurs Parc Naturel Régional certified B&B, built by local carpenters in elegant rustic style. Good option for those seeking comfortable accommodation near the sanctuary.

🚗 Getting There

By Air: The nearest major airports are Marseille-Provence (MRS, approximately 60km) and Toulon-Hyères (TLN, approximately 70km). Nice-Côte d'Azur (NCE) is approximately 150km. Car rental is recommended. By Train: The nearest stations are Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (approximately 20km) and Aubagne (approximately 35km), both on regional TER lines from Marseille. From the stations, taxi or bus service reaches Plan-d'Aups. By Bus: Limited bus service connects Plan-d'Aups with nearby towns. Check local schedules or arrange taxi transfer. By Car: From Marseille, take the A50 east toward Aubagne, then the D2 toward Gmenos and follow signs to Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume (approximately 45km, 1 hour). From Saint-Maximin, take the D560 south (approximately 20km, 30 minutes). Free parking is available at the Hôtellerie. On Foot: La Sainte-Baume is on the GR9 long-distance trail. The Chemin de Marie-Madeleine (224km) runs from Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer through Marseille to La Sainte-Baume and Saint-Maximin. The Chemin des Roys connects Saint-Maximin to the grotto. The Ascent: From the Hôtellerie parking area, the walk to the grotto takes approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour via the Chemin du Canapé through the sacred forest. The path is well-marked (GR9 red and white blazes). The final approach includes 150 stone steps. From the grotto, the summit of Saint-Pilon is an additional 30-45 minutes. Good hiking shoes recommended; the path can be slippery when wet.

📚 Further Reading

Books:

  • Katherine Ludwig Jansen, The Making of the Magdalen: Preaching and Popular Devotion in the Later Middle Ages (Princeton University Press) – Scholarly study of Mary Magdalene's cult in medieval Europe.
  • Susan Haskins, Mary Magdalen: Myth and Metaphor (Harcourt) – Comprehensive exploration of the Magdalene's image through history.
  • En chemin avec Marie-Madeleine: Culture et Spiritualité (Association Chemins des Saintes) – Guide to the Chemin de Marie-Madeleine pilgrimage route.

Articles & Online Resources:

🎥 Recommended Videos

🔗 Useful Links

💡 Nearby Pilgrimage Sites

Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (20km): Home to the Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene, the largest Gothic church in Provence, housing the saint's relics in a fourth-century crypt—considered the "third vault of Christendom" after the Holy Sepulchre and Saint Peter's tomb. The basilica and grotto together form one complete pilgrimage. Cotignac (45km): The only place where the entire Holy Family has appeared in Church-approved apparitions. Notre-Dame de Grâces (1519) and Saint Joseph du Bessillon (1660) draw 150,000 pilgrims annually. Tarascon (80km): Site associated with Saint Martha, Mary Magdalene's sister, who according to tradition tamed the legendary Tarasque. The Collegiate Church of Saint Martha preserves her relics. Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (130km): Traditional landing site of Mary Magdalene and companions. The fortified Church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer houses relics of Saints Mary Jacobé and Mary Salomé. Starting point of the Chemin de Marie-Madeleine.

✝️ Closing Reflection

"At La Sainte-Baume, you arrive as a hiker; you leave as a pilgrim."

— Father Marie-Étienne Vayssière, OP, Guardian of the Grotto

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For the most current information on Mass schedules, retreat programs, and Hôtellerie availability, please contact the sanctuary directly through their official website.