The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Oviedo, Spain

On March 14, 1075, King Alfonso VI of Castile stood in the cathedral of Oviedo beside his sister Doña Urraca and the legendary warrior Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar - El Cid himself - as priests opened a wooden chest that had been sealed for centuries. Inside lay relics brought from Jerusalem centuries before, including a bloodstained cloth said to have covered Christ's face in the tomb. The Arca Santa had been opened, and the sacred treasures of Oviedo were revealed to the medieval world. Today, the Cathedral of San Salvador remains one of Spain's most important pilgrimage destinations. Its Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, houses the Sudarium of Oviedo and other relics that draw pilgrims who honor the medieval saying: "Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor" - He who goes to Santiago and not to the Saviour, visits the servant and leaves the Lord.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

King Fruela I founded a church on this site in 781 AD, and his son Alfonso II (the Chaste) enlarged it in 802, establishing Oviedo as the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias. Alfonso II built the Cámara Santa in the 9th century as a palace chapel and reliquary to house treasures brought from Toledo, which had received them from Jerusalem fleeing the Persian invasion of 614. The relics' journey was remarkable: from Jerusalem to Alexandria under presbyter Philip, across North Africa to Spain, then to Toledo in 657, and finally north to Asturias in 718 to escape the Moorish conquest. They were first hidden in a cave at Monsacro before Alfonso II built their permanent home in Oviedo. The cathedral became known as "Sancta Ovetensis" for housing this extraordinary collection. The present Gothic cathedral was begun in 1388, with the magnificent 82-meter tower completed in 1528. In 1438, Pope Eugene IV granted Oviedo the privilege of celebrating its own Jubilee, the "Pardonanza," offering plenary indulgence to pilgrims visiting during the feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross (September 14-21).

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Oviedo

Cathedral of San Salvador

The Gothic cathedral, begun in 1388 and completed over several centuries, stands on the site of an earlier 8th-century church founded by King Fruela I. Its soaring 82-meter tower, finished in 1528, dominates Oviedo's skyline. The cathedral houses one of Christendom's most important collections of relics, earning it the title "Sancta Ovetensis" - the Holy of Oviedo. Address Plaza de Alfonso II el Casto, 33003 Oviedo GPS 43.3625093, -5.8436718 Map Google Maps Web catedraldeoviedo.com

Camara Santa (Holy Chamber)

The spiritual heart of Oviedo pilgrimage is the Cámara Santa, a 9th-century pre-Romanesque chapel declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. The two-story structure houses the cathedral's most precious relics. The lower crypt is dedicated to St. Leocadia; the upper chapel, rebuilt in Romanesque style after 12th-century modifications, features paired columns carved with the twelve Apostles. The chamber was severely damaged during the 1934 Asturian miners' revolution and painstakingly restored between 1939 and 1942. The Cross of the Angels, a gift from Alfonso II dated 808, suffered significant damage and was later stolen in 1977, though most pieces were recovered.

The Sudarium of Oviedo

The Sudarium (Latin for "sweat cloth") is a bloodstained linen cloth measuring 84 x 53 cm, believed to be the cloth placed over Christ's face after the crucifixion, as referenced in John 20:7. Unlike the Shroud of Turin, it bears no image - only bloodstains and fluid marks consistent with a crucified victim. Scientific studies have found remarkable correlations with the Turin Shroud: both cloths show type AB blood (rare in medieval Europe but common in the Middle East), matching pollen from Palestine, and 70 points of coincidence when overlaid. The Sudarium is displayed publicly only three times yearly: Good Friday, the Feast of the Triumph of the Cross (September 14), and September 21.

Other Sacred Treasures

The Arca Santa (Holy Ark) is a silver-covered oak chest dating to 1075, containing numerous relics including fragments of the True Cross, bread from the Last Supper, and earth from Golgotha. The Cross of the Angels (808 AD) and the Victory Cross (908 AD) are masterpieces of Asturian goldsmithing, while the Agate Box is a stunning 10th-century reliquary.

Pre-Romanesque Churches of Monte Naranco

Three kilometers from the cathedral, Monte Naranco holds two more UNESCO World Heritage churches. Santa María del Naranco was built in 842 as King Ramiro I's palace and consecrated as a church in 848. Its barrel vaults with transverse ribs make it a direct precursor to Romanesque architecture. Nearby San Miguel de Lillo (848 AD), though only a third of its original structure survives, preserves remarkable original sculptures showing Byzantine influence. Address Laderas del Monte Naranco, 33012 Oviedo GPS 43.3736, -5.8665 Map Google Maps Web prerromanicoasturiano.es

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

The Pardonanza (September 14-21): The highlight of Oviedo's liturgical year. Centered on the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross (September 14), this week-long jubilee offers plenary indulgence to pilgrims. The Sudarium is displayed publicly on September 14 and 21. Special Masses, processions, and veneration of relics draw thousands. Good Friday: The Sudarium is displayed for public veneration, making this one of the most significant days to visit for pilgrims seeking to see the relic. San Mateo (September 21): The feast of St. Matthew coincides with the final day of the Pardonanza and Oviedo's major civic festival, blending religious observance with cultural celebrations.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ - A National Monument built in 1752, this baroque palace hosts the Princess of Asturias Awards. Sumptuous rooms with period furnishings, 5 minutes from the cathedral. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Gran Hotel Regente ⭐⭐⭐⭐ - Modern comfort just 200m from the cathedral. Some rooms offer direct views of the Gothic tower. Excellent value in the historic center. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Soho Boutique Oviedo ⭐⭐⭐ - Stylish boutique hotel 200m from the cathedral and Museum of Fine Arts. Soundproof rooms, good breakfast, and friendly staff. Reserve this hotel

🚗 Getting There

Oviedo sits in the heart of Asturias in northern Spain, well-connected by air, rail, and road. By Air: Asturias Airport (OVD) is 45 km from Oviedo with connections to Madrid, Barcelona, London, and other European cities. ALSA buses connect the airport to Oviedo city center (45 min, €8). By Train: Renfe operates high-speed trains from Madrid (4h 30m) and regular services from other Spanish cities. Oviedo station is 15 minutes walk from the cathedral. By Car: The A-66 motorway connects Oviedo to León (120 km south) and Gijón (30 km north). The A-8 coastal motorway links to Santander (200 km east) and Santiago de Compostela (300 km west). On Foot: The Camino Primitivo begins at the cathedral, heading west to Santiago de Compostela (321 km, 14 stages). Pilgrims can obtain their credential at the cathedral before setting out.

🔗 Useful Links

Oviedo Cathedral Official Site - Mass times, visiting hours, and information about the Cámara Santa. Turismo Asturias - Cámara Santa - Visitor information for the Holy Chamber and pre-Romanesque monuments. Archdiocese of Oviedo - Official diocesan website with parish information and schedules. Camino Primitivo Guide - Practical information for pilgrims starting the original route to Santiago.

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Covadonga (80 km) — Sanctuary of Our Lady of Covadonga in the Picos de Europa, birthplace of the Reconquista. The Holy Cave and neo-Romanesque basilica honor the Virgin who aided King Pelayo's victory in 722. Santo Toribio de Liébana (170 km) — Monastery housing the Lignum Crucis, the largest surviving relic of the True Cross. One of five sites worldwide with perpetual Jubilee Year privileges. Santiago de Compostela (300 km) — The culmination of the Camino Primitivo. From Oviedo's cathedral, medieval pilgrims walked 14 stages to reach the tomb of St. James the Apostle.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"Then Simon Peter came, following him, and went into the tomb. He saw the linen cloths lying there, and the face cloth, which had been on Jesus' head, not lying with the linen cloths but folded up in a place by itself."

— John 20:6-7 (ESV) include catholic version