The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Malayattoor, India

Sometime after AD 52, hunters tracking game through the dense jungle above the Periyar River spotted a strange glow emanating from a massive rock. When they struck it with their tools, blood flowed from the stone. Word spread through the villages: this was the place where Thomas the Apostle had fled from hostile crowds, climbed a steep hill rising over a thousand feet from the river, and traced the sign of the cross upon the rock with his bleeding finger. Today, four million pilgrims annually climb Kurisumudi—the Hill of the Holy Cross—following a path of fourteen stations through the Western Ghats foothills. At the summit, a golden cross crafted in 1736 marks the spot where Thomas is believed to have prayed, and where the Virgin Mary appeared to console him. The footprints and knee marks of the apostle, preserved in a glass enclosure, bear witness to an encounter that preceded the great cathedrals of Christendom by centuries. In 2004, the Vatican elevated Malayattoor to International Shrine status—one of only eight worldwide, and the sole such designation in all of Asia.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The earliest written source connecting the Apostle Thomas to India is the Acts of Thomas, composed in the early third century. According to the tradition preserved by the Saint Thomas Christians of Kerala—known as Nasranis or Mar Thoma Nasranis—Thomas landed at Muziris (modern Kodungallur) around AD 52, having traveled the maritime trade routes linking the Roman world to the spice coasts of the East. Thomas found in Kodungallur a cosmopolitan port. Jewish merchants had settled there centuries earlier; Roman coins circulated freely. He preached, converted Brahmin families of high standing, and established the first of seven churches across Kerala. But at Malayattoor, the reception proved different. The crowds turned hostile. Thomas fled up the forested hillside, climbing steep terrain until he reached the summit. There, tradition holds, he made the sign of the cross upon a rock, and in that moment of despair, the Virgin Mary appeared to console him. A spring burst forth when he struck the rock, providing water in the wilderness. He descended, continued his evangelization, and eventually traveled eastward—some traditions say as far as Malacca and China—before returning to die a martyr's death at Mylapore near Madras in AD 72. Centuries passed. The jungle reclaimed the hill. Then hunters discovered the glowing rock and the blood that flowed when they struck it. Villagers climbed the path, found Thomas's footprints pressed into stone, and began a pilgrimage tradition that has never ceased. The first parish church rose on the banks of the Periyar around AD 700. A golden cross—104 banyan leaf designs, 10 bells, 4 iron spikes, mounted on a 27-inch silver plate—was crafted in 1736 to mark the summit shrine. The back wall of the ancient chapel still bears marks attributed to elephant attacks in the days when the jungle pressed close. Modern recognition followed centuries of unbroken devotion. In 1998, Cardinal Mar Varkey Vithayathil promoted Malayattoor to Archdiocesan status. The foundation stone for a new church was laid on January 1, 1999; Major Archbishop Mar George Alencherry consecrated the completed structure on January 15, 2012. The Greco-Roman design combines a Roman Catholic façade with a Greek-style altar, the interior adorned with paintings depicting the five joyful mysteries. The Vatican's 2004 elevation to International Shrine status recognized what Kerala's faithful had always known: Malayattoor is ground sanctified by apostolic presence, a place where the Gospel first touched Indian soil.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Malayattoor

Kurisumudi

Hill of the Holy Cross The summit church crowns a climb of approximately three kilometers, rising 609 meters (about 1,269 feet) above the Periyar River. Fourteen Stations of the Cross mark the ascent, which takes pilgrims between one and two hours depending on pace and fitness. The path winds through the foothills of the Western Ghats, past rubber plantations and spice gardens fragrant with nutmeg and areca. At the top, pilgrims find the golden cross that has marked this place since 1736. A glass enclosure protects the footprints and knee marks attributed to St. Thomas—indentations in the rock where the apostle knelt in prayer. The spring that tradition says Thomas caused to flow still produces water believed by many to possess healing properties. Address Kurisumudi, Malayattoor, Ernakulam District, Kerala 683587 GPS 10.1852907, 76.5067251 Map Google Maps Web malayattoorchurch.com

Marthoma Mandapam

This chapel houses relics of St. Thomas, providing pilgrims who cannot make the summit climb an opportunity for veneration at the base level. The structure serves as a gathering point before and after the hill pilgrimage.

Sannidhi

The main worship area accommodates approximately 10,000 pilgrims during major feasts. The spacious design reflects the reality of Malayattoor's crowds—during Holy Week, the number of pilgrims can reach into the hundreds of thousands.

Ancient Chapel Ruins

On the summit, remnants of the earliest chapel stand as testimony to centuries of worship. The back wall bears distinctive marks—tradition attributes these to elephant attacks from the era when dense jungle surrounded the shrine. Goats were once kept at the summit; villagers would climb to relight the sanctuary lamp when it was extinguished by wind, guided by the goats' descent from the hill.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

Malayattoor Perunnal — First Sunday after Easter

The principal feast commemorates Thomas's encounter with the risen Christ eight days after the Resurrection—the moment when the doubting apostle placed his fingers in the wounds and declared, "My Lord and my God." In Kerala, this Sunday following Easter is known as Puthunjayar or "New Sunday." The pilgrimage season intensifies during Holy Week. On Maundy Thursday and Good Friday, pilgrims stream up Kurisumudi carrying wooden crosses—some weighing over 75 kilograms—stones, and brooms. These burdens symbolize the weight of sin, life's difficulties, or vows made in times of crisis. The traditional chant echoes through the hills: "Ponnum Kurishu Muthappo, Ponmala Kayattom"—"O Patriarch of the Golden Cross! Climb we shall, this golden hill!" Villages surrounding the shrine take on a festive atmosphere. Vendors sell traditional Kerala delicacies and religious articles. The faithful maintain an austere life of prayer during the Lenten season preceding the pilgrimage.

Dukrana Thirunal — July 3

This feast commemorates the martyrdom of St. Thomas. While Malayattoor observes the day, the principal celebration occurs at Mylapore (Chennai), where the apostle was martyred and where his tomb remains.

Feast of the Holy Cross — September 14

The universal Church's celebration of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross holds special significance at a shrine defined by its cross—both the symbol traced by Thomas and the golden cross that has marked the summit for nearly three centuries.

Kurissu Viyartha Feast — December 18

This observance commemorates the stone cross of Mylapore, connecting Malayattoor's pilgrims to the broader network of St. Thomas sites across India.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Malayattoor Residency ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — The nearest quality accommodation, this 16-room property opened in March 2012 on Kalady Malayattoor Road, approximately 10 kilometers from the shrine. Air-conditioned rooms, restaurant with halal options, café, and bar. Free parking and WiFi; airport shuttle available. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Karingens Resort ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Located in Kodanad, 11.9 kilometers from the shrine, this resort offers spa facilities, swimming pool, and gym. Convenient access to Cochin International Airport. Reserve this hotel Park Regency ⭐⭐⭐ — A budget-friendly option in the Angamaly area with jacuzzi, spa, and pool facilities. Good transport connections to the shrine. Reserve this hotel

🚗 Getting There

By Air: Cochin International Airport (COK) lies 15-22 kilometers from Malayattoor, making it the most convenient gateway. International flights connect through major Indian hubs; domestic carriers serve Kochi from across the country. By Train: Angamaly Railway Station, 17-23 kilometers from the shrine, offers the closest rail connection. Ernakulam Junction (46 kilometers) provides more frequent service on main trunk routes. By Road: Malayattoor lies 47 kilometers from Kochi and 15 kilometers from Kalady (birthplace of the philosopher Adi Shankara). A new bridge across the Periyar River connects Malayattoor to Kodanad on the opposite bank. Local buses and taxis serve the shrine from major towns. By Foot: The traditional approach remains the climb itself—three kilometers from the base to the summit, with fourteen stations marking the way. Allow 1-2 hours for the ascent.

📚 Further Reading

Books: Mathew, K. S., et al. St. Thomas and India: Recent Research — Scholarly compilation bringing together research on both North and South Indian activities of the Apostle, endorsed by Archbishop Joseph Powathil and Sebastian Brock of Oxford. Kurikilamkatt, James. First Voyage of the Apostle Thomas to India — Detailed examination of the earliest traditions connecting Thomas to the subcontinent. Burke, Abbot George. The Christ of India: The Story of Saint Thomas Christianity — Accessible introduction to the history and spirituality of the Nasrani tradition. Online Resources: Thomas the Apostle — Comprehensive overview of the apostle's life, missionary journeys, and veneration across Christian traditions. (Wikipedia) Malayattoor Church — Official Kerala Tourism guide with practical visitor information. (Kerala Tourism)

🔗 Useful Links

St. Thomas International Shrine — Official shrine website with Mass times, feast information, and pilgrim resources. Kerala Tourism - Malayattoor — State tourism board page with accommodation listings and regional information.

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Kalady (15 km) — Birthplace of Adi Shankara, the 8th-century philosopher who revitalized Hinduism. While not a Catholic site, it represents Kerala's deep spiritual heritage and lies on the route to Malayattoor. Kodungallur (50 km) — Ancient Muziris, where St. Thomas is believed to have first landed in AD 52. The Kodungallur Cheraman Juma Masjid, traditionally dated to AD 629, claims to be India's first mosque. Kottakkavu (35 km) — One of the seven original churches established by St. Thomas, located at North Paravur. The present structure dates to later centuries but marks a site of apostolic foundation. Mylapore, Chennai (700 km) — The site of St. Thomas's martyrdom and burial. The San Thome Cathedral Basilica houses his tomb, and St. Thomas Mount marks the traditional site of his death.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"Unless I see the nail marks in his hands and put my finger where the nails were, and put my hand into his side, I will not believe... My Lord and my God!"

— John 20:25, 28