The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Chennai, India

In AD 52, a Jewish carpenter named Thomas—the same disciple who had demanded to touch the wounds of the risen Christ—stepped ashore at the port of Muziris on India's Malabar Coast. For twenty years he preached throughout the subcontinent, establishing seven churches in Kerala before traveling east to the Coromandel Coast. On July 3, AD 72, while praying before a stone cross he had carved on a hill outside Mylapore, a Brahmin priest struck him from behind with a lance. Thomas fell, his blood staining the rock. They buried him where he died. Today Chennai guards what Rome and Santiago also possess: the tomb of an apostle. Santhome Cathedral Basilica rises over the burial site in the Mylapore neighborhood, its neo-Gothic spires visible from the Bay of Bengal. Eleven kilometers south, St. Thomas Mount preserves the martyrdom site, where the bleeding cross still draws pilgrims who climb 160 granite steps to kneel where Thomas knelt. Between them, Little Mount shelters the cave where the apostle lived and prayed during his final years. Nine million Thomas Christians trace their faith to this man who traveled farther than any other apostle—and Chennai is where his journey ended.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

Thomas arrived in India during the reign of the Parthian king Gondophares, whose historical existence was confirmed by nineteenth-century numismatic discoveries. The Acts of Thomas, a third-century Syriac text, describes the apostle being sold as a slave to a merchant named Abban and brought to India to build a palace for the king. Instead of constructing an earthly dwelling, Thomas spent the treasury on the poor, telling Gondophares he was building him a palace in heaven. The king's brother died and returned to life, confirming Thomas's words. Both were baptized. From the northwest, Thomas eventually made his way south. Tradition holds that he established seven churches along the Malabar Coast—at Kodungallur, Palayur, Kottakkavu, Kokkamangalam, Niranam, Nilackal, and Kollam—before crossing to the eastern coast around AD 68. In Mylapore, then a prosperous trading settlement, he continued his mission until local opposition turned violent. The earliest written testimony to Thomas's Indian apostolate comes from St. Ephrem the Syrian, writing in the fourth century: "The merchant is blessed for having so great a treasure. Edessa thus became the blessed city by possessing the greatest pearl India could yield." Ephrem refers to the translation of Thomas's relics from India to Edessa, a journey made by a merchant named Khabin. Gregory of Tours, before 590, records the testimony of a pilgrim named Theodore who had visited both tombs—the first in India, the second at Edessa. Medieval travelers confirmed what the local Christians had preserved for centuries. Marco Polo visited Mylapore in 1292 and recorded the tomb's location. John of Montecorvino stopped here in 1291 before proceeding to China. Oderic of Pordenone came in 1325, and John de Marignolli in 1349. When the Portuguese arrived in 1517, they found a thriving community of Thomas Christians who had maintained their apostolic heritage through a millennium and a half of isolation from Western Christendom. The Portuguese rebuilt the medieval shrine in 1523, the same year they constructed a chapel at St. Thomas Mount. St. Francis Xavier himself spent four months in Mylapore in 1545, praying at the tomb and establishing devotion to Our Lady of Mylapore. The current neo-Gothic cathedral dates to 1893-1896, when British architects replaced the Portuguese structure with the twin-spired basilica that stands today. Pope Pius XII elevated Santhome to a Minor Basilica in 1956. Pope John Paul II visited both the cathedral and St. Thomas Mount on February 5, 1986, becoming the first pope to pray at the apostle's tomb. In 2006, the Indian bishops designated Santhome as a National Shrine. St. Thomas Mount received the same honor in November 2023, when it was also elevated to Minor Basilica status.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Chennai

Santhome Cathedral Basilica

San Thome Basilica / National Shrine of St. Thomas The neo-Gothic cathedral rises over the exact spot where Thomas was buried in AD 72, making it one of only three churches in the world built over an apostle's tomb—the others being St. Peter's Basilica in Rome and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The British reconstruction of 1893-1896 created a nave of 112 by 33 feet beneath a ribbed teak ceiling reaching 36.5 feet, while the sanctuary extends 62 by 33 feet under a ceiling of 41.5 feet. Twin spires anchor the façade: the primary bell tower rises 155 feet, while a secondary spire marks the location of the tomb below. Sixteen windows hold 34 stained glass panels depicting scenes from Thomas's life and martyrdom. A 200-year-old British pipe organ still sounds for major celebrations. Address 38 Santhome High Road, Santhome, Chennai 600004 GPS 13.033596, 80.277689 Map Google Maps Web archdiocesemm.in

Underground Tomb Chapel

A major restoration in 2002-2004 created the underground tomb chapel that pilgrims visit today. Descending beneath the high altar, visitors enter a space of polished marble and soft lighting where a glass-fronted reliquary contains a bone fragment—the tip of a finger—from Thomas's body. The main portion of his relics was translated to Edessa in the third century and later to Ortona, Italy, but this fragment returned to Chennai in the twentieth century. A small museum adjoins the chapel, displaying the spearhead traditionally believed to be the weapon of martyrdom and screening a short film on Thomas's mission. The tomb has been opened only four times in recorded history.

Santhome Pole

Outside the cathedral stands the Santhome Pole, a gold-plated pillar believed to have been erected by Thomas himself during his mission. Local tradition holds that this pole miraculously saved the church from the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, when the wave stopped just short of the cathedral grounds. Pilgrims tie threads to the pole as mannat offerings—prayers of petition—and return to untie them when their prayers are answered.

Our Lady of Mylapore

Above the main altar, a gold-painted wooden statue of the Virgin and Child has watched over this site since 1523, when it arrived from Lisbon with the Portuguese missionaries. St. Francis Xavier knelt before this image during his four-month stay in Mylapore in 1545, and tradition credits him with establishing the devotion of special prayers on the second Saturday of each month. The Mylai Matha Feast in December draws thousands of local faithful.

St. Thomas Mount National Shrine Basilica

Parangimalai / Big Mount Eleven kilometers south of Santhome, a granite hill rises 300 feet above the surrounding plain. Here Thomas came to pray each day during his final years, and here his martyrdom occurred on July 3, AD 72. The Portuguese built the current shrine in 1523, dedicating it to Our Lady of Expectation after a painting of the pregnant Virgin that hangs above the altar—an image tradition attributes to St. Luke himself, brought to India by Thomas. This would make it the oldest Christian painting in India, venerated for nearly two millennia. Address St. Thomas Mount, Chennai 600016 GPS 13.004722, 80.198889 Map Google Maps Web stthomasmount.in

The Bleeding Cross

Built into the altar wall, a stone cross carved by Thomas himself bears the stains of his blood. First documented in 1547 when the Portuguese excavated it, the cross displays Sassanid Pahlavi inscriptions dating to the seventh century. Beginning on December 18, 1558, during Mass, the cross began to bleed publicly—a phenomenon that recurred annually at first, then every two to three years, until the last recorded occurrence in 1704. The stone still shows natural dampness, and pilgrims venerate it by touching the glass that now protects the relic. Miracles of healing continue to be attributed to prayers made before the cross.

The Ascent and Calvary

Pilgrims approach the shrine by climbing 160 granite steps, originally 134 when Petrus Uscan built them in 1726. The Fourteen Stations of the Cross line the ascent, and a Calvary monument erected in 1963 features a life-size crucifixion scene. At the summit, the small church preserves oil paintings of all twelve apostles, the Portuguese coat of arms, and over 100 relics including a toe bone of Thomas and relics of St. Joseph, the Virgin Mary, and every apostle. The altar marks the exact spot of martyrdom.

Little Mount Shrine

Chinnamalai / Our Lady of Health Between Santhome and St. Thomas Mount, in the Saidapet neighborhood south of the Adyar River, a natural cave in a small hill preserves the dwelling place of Thomas during his years in Mylapore. The cave measures roughly 14 by 15 feet with a ceiling of 7 feet—cramped quarters where the apostle lived, prayed, and hid from those who sought his life. An ancient cross carved at the entrance and impressions in the rock said to be Thomas's hand and footprints mark the sacred space. A small window in the rock, tradition holds, was miraculously created when Thomas needed to escape his persecutors and flee to Big Mount. Address Little Mount, Saidapet, Chennai 600015 GPS 13.015833, 80.224722 Map Google Maps

The Holy Spring

Within the cave, a perpetual spring produces water believed to have healing properties. Pilgrims have drawn from this source for centuries, and the spring has never run dry despite Chennai's frequent droughts. The phenomenon is attributed to Thomas's blessing of the site during his years of prayer here.

The Church Complex

Above the cave, the Portuguese built a chapel in 1551, portions of which survive today. A modern circular church, blessed in 1971 by Archbishop R. Arulappa, incorporates Vatican II architectural symbolism while preserving access to the ancient cave below. The Holy Land amphitheater seats 2,000 for outdoor Masses and includes Stations of the Cross and a Chapel of the Holy Cross. A stone sculpture of Thomas dating to 1612 depicts him as a haloed, bearded figure holding a Bible and carpenter's scale. An Armenian tombstone from 1112—belonging to Khojah David, son of Margare—is the oldest Christian grave marker in Chennai, evidence of the ancient trade connections that brought Christians to this coast. The Karunai Illam provides residential care for disabled pilgrims.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

Feast of St. Thomas — July 3

The principal feast commemorates Thomas's martyrdom in AD 72 and is celebrated as Indian Christians' Day (Yeshu Bhakti Divas) throughout the country. In 2021, the Indian bishops launched a decade of celebration leading to the 2,000th anniversary of Christ's earthly ministry, with July 3 as the anchor feast each year. At Santhome Cathedral, the celebrations span ten days from June 29 to July 8. Flag hoisting on June 29 at 5:30 PM opens the festivities, followed by daily novenas and evening Masses. On July 3 itself, the Archbishop of Madras-Mylapore celebrates the principal Mass at 5:30 PM. During the feast days, a special 11:00 AM Mass is offered in the underground tomb chapel, allowing pilgrims to pray directly at the apostle's burial site. The rosary is recited daily at 5:30 PM, followed by Eucharistic Adoration and Benediction. A solemn car procession from the St. Lazarus Church zone to the cathedral on the evening of July 7 brings the celebrations to their climax, with the flag lowering on Sunday evening marking the close. Perpetual adoration of the Blessed Sacrament continues 24 hours a day, 7 days a week in the cathedral's adoration chapel, making Santhome a center of Eucharistic devotion year-round.

Our Lady of Expectation — December 18

St. Thomas Mount celebrates its principal feast on December 18, honoring the pregnant Virgin whose image has hung above the altar since Portuguese times. The feast draws tens of thousands of pilgrims who climb the granite steps before dawn and throughout the day. Special Masses are celebrated at the summit, and the Bleeding Cross receives particular veneration on this day.

Mylai Matha Feast — December

At Santhome Cathedral, the Feast of Immaculate Conception on December 8 initiates a month of Marian devotion. The second Saturday of each month sees special prayers, processions, rosary, and Benediction in the evening—a tradition begun by St. Francis Xavier during his 1545 stay. The December celebrations honor Our Lady of Mylapore, the 1523 statue from Lisbon that has watched over the cathedral for five centuries.

Little Mount — Fourth Sunday after Easter

The Shrine of Our Lady of Health at Little Mount celebrates its annual feast on the fourth Sunday after Easter, drawing pilgrims who seek healing through the intercession of both Thomas and the Virgin Mary. The holy spring water is distributed to the faithful, and special Masses are celebrated throughout the day in multiple languages.

🛏️ Where to Stay

The Leela Palace Chennai ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — The only oceanfront luxury palace hotel in Chennai, spread across 4.8 acres on the Coromandel Coast with direct views of the Bay of Bengal. Architecture inspired by the grand Chettinad palaces of Tamil Nadu, with 316 soundproof rooms featuring sea views. Three restaurants include Jamavar for signature Indian cuisine and China XO for Chinese fine dining. Full-service spa, outdoor pool, and rooftop garden. Approximately 8 km from Santhome Cathedral. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel The Raintree St. Mary's Road ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Five-star property in Alwarpet, 3.3 km from Santhome Cathedral, with 108 rooms featuring modern décor and wooden flooring. Rooftop swimming pool overlooking the city skyline, Tattva Spa, and three restaurants including Above Sea Level rooftop dining. Complimentary breakfast buffet and free WiFi. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels Cathedral Road ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Formerly the Chola Sheraton, now the world's first LEED Zero Carbon certified hotel. Contemporary design inspired by Chennai's temples and traditional Sikku Kolam patterns. Ninety rooms include 48 exclusive Fortune Club suites. Three restaurants, K By Kaya Kalp spa, outdoor pool, and fitness center. Located 3.4 km from Santhome, near Marina Beach. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel

🚗 Getting There

By Air: Chennai International Airport (MAA) serves as the primary gateway, located 15 km from Santhome Cathedral. The airport has two terminals: Kamaraj Domestic Terminal and Anna International Terminal. Taxis and ride-sharing services are readily available, with the journey to Santhome taking 30-45 minutes depending on traffic. By Train: Chennai has multiple railway stations. Chennai Central and Chennai Egmore are the main terminals, approximately 6-8 km from Santhome. The Mass Rapid Transit System (MRTS) provides suburban rail service, with Thirumayilai MRTS station located 1.8 km (24-minute walk) from the cathedral and Mandaveli MRTS station at similar distance. By Metro: The Chennai Metro Blue Line connects the airport to the city center. From Airport Metro station, feeder buses (Route S100) connect to the city network. Metro service operates from 6:14 AM to 11:29 PM. By Bus: The Metropolitan Transport Corporation (MTC) operates over 750 routes throughout Chennai. Bus routes 102K, 12E, 12X, 6D, 22, 102, 109, and 587 stop at Santhome Church, with the first bus at 4:03 AM and last at 11:53 PM. Fares range from ₹6-40. By Car: From the airport, take the Inner Ring Road to Adyar and continue to Santhome via the coast road. St. Thomas Mount is visible from the highway and has its own exit. Little Mount is accessible via Saidapet. Parking is available at all three sites.

📚 Further Reading

Online Resources: St. Thomas the Apostle — Comprehensive biography from the Catholic Encyclopedia covering his biblical appearances and Indian apostolate. (EWTN) The First Encounter of Christianity with India — Scholarly examination of the historical evidence for Thomas's mission, including ancient texts and inscriptions. (EWTN) St. Thomas Christians — Detailed history of the Christian communities founded by Thomas, their preservation of apostolic tradition, and their connection to Mylapore. (EWTN) St. Thomas, Apostle & St. Francis Xavier — Cardinal Crescenzio Sepe's homily for the 1950th anniversary of Thomas's arrival in India, delivered in Kerala in 2002. (EWTN)

🔗 Useful Links

Archdiocese of Madras-Mylapore — Official diocesan website with parish information, news, and pilgrim resources. St. Thomas Mount National Shrine — Official shrine website with Mass times, history, and visitor information. Tamil Nadu Tourism — State tourism board with accommodation, attractions, and travel information. Chennai Metro Rail — Official metro website with route maps, schedules, and fare information.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"My Lord and my God!"

— John 20:28