Pilgrim's Guide to Hill of the Crosses, Lithuania

On September 7, 1993, Pope John Paul II stood on a windswept hill twelve kilometers north of Šiauliai, surrounded by over one hundred thousand pilgrims and countless thousands of crosses. Surveying the forest of crucifixes—wooden, iron, and stone—that Lithuanians had raised despite decades of Soviet bulldozers, the Holy Father declared: "Thank you, Lithuanians, for this Hill of Crosses which testifies to the nations of Europe and to the whole world the faith of the people of this land."

This sacred mound, rising just ten meters above the surrounding plain, holds an estimated two hundred thousand crosses today—each one planted by pilgrims seeking healing, giving thanks, or remembering the dead. The practice began after the failed 1831 uprising against Russian rule, when families unable to locate the bodies of fallen rebels erected symbolic crosses on an ancient hill fort. What started as an act of mourning became an act of defiance. The Soviets bulldozed the site in 1961, 1973, and 1975, destroying thousands of crosses each time. Pilgrims returned under cover of darkness to rebuild. The Hill of Crosses became Lithuania's Golgotha—a place where faith conquered oppression without shedding a drop of blood.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The Hill of Crosses stands on the site of a medieval hill fort known as Jurgaičiai or Domantai. Archaeological evidence suggests the mound was fortified between the 11th and 14th centuries, though the practice of placing crosses here began only in the 19th century. The first written mention of crosses on the hill dates to 1850, nearly two decades after the November Uprising of 1831. When Lithuanian and Polish rebels fell fighting against the Russian Empire, their families often could not recover the bodies or give them proper Christian burial. The crosses became both tombstones for the missing and prayers for their souls.

The practice intensified after the January Uprising of 1863-1864. By the end of the 19th century, the hill had become a place of pilgrimage, with crosses numbering in the hundreds. The tradition continued through Lithuanian independence (1918-1940), when the site took on additional layers of meaning—gratitude for nationhood, prayers for the young republic, memorials for those lost in the wars.

Soviet occupation beginning in 1940 brought systematic attempts to destroy the Hill of Crosses. The authorities recognized what the crosses represented: not merely religious devotion, but Lithuanian national identity and resistance to atheist communism. In April 1961, Soviet forces deployed heavy machinery to level the site. Workers burned wooden crosses, melted metal ones for scrap, and crushed stone structures. Over five thousand crosses were destroyed. The authorities posted guards and spread rumors that the area was contaminated.

Lithuanians responded with quiet defiance. They returned at night, evading patrols, to plant new crosses. The Soviets bulldozed the site again in 1973 and 1975, removing some five hundred crosses annually between major clearances. They even planned to flood the area, creating an unreachable island. Yet each morning brought more crosses. The Hill became a living symbol of what the regime could not destroy—the faith of a nation.

When Pope John Paul II visited on September 7, 1993, he brought the Hill of Crosses to world attention. Celebrating Mass before a hundred thousand pilgrims, he was moved to discover that someone had placed a cross on the hill praying for his recovery after the 1981 assassination attempt. In his homily, he remembered the Lithuanians sent to prison, deported to Siberia, or condemned to death for their faith. He declared the site a place "for hope, peace, love, and sacrifice." The following year, presiding over the Stations of the Cross at the Roman Colosseum, John Paul II called the Hill "that Lithuanian Colosseum, which is not from the times of the Roman Empire but from our very own times."

In autumn 1993, the Pope visited Mount La Verna in Italy—where Saint Francis received the stigmata—and declared that Europe had two special hills: La Verna and the Hill of Crosses. He urged the Franciscan order to establish a monastery near the Lithuanian site. The Franciscan Monastery of the Lithuanian Province of St. Casimir was consecrated on July 8, 2000, its cornerstone cut from La Verna and blessed by the Holy Father himself.

Today the Hill of Crosses continues to grow. UNESCO recognizes Lithuanian cross-crafting (kryždirbystė) as intangible cultural heritage—a symbol of national and religious identity that united communities through centuries of adversity. Pilgrims from around the world add crosses daily, from simple wooden crucifixes purchased at the visitor center to elaborate works of folk art carried from distant countries. The forest of crosses has become a forest of prayers.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Hill of the Crosses

The pilgrimage complex encompasses the Hill itself, the Franciscan Monastery, and a modern visitor center. The site is freely accessible at all hours, with no entrance fee—a deliberate choice reflecting the Hill's identity as a place that belongs to all who seek it.

The Hill of Crosses

Kryžių kalnas

The Hill rises approximately ten meters above the surrounding plain, its silhouette a jagged forest of crosses against the Lithuanian sky. An estimated two hundred thousand crosses now cover the mound—the last official count in 2006 recorded over one hundred thousand, but the number grows daily as pilgrims add new crosses. The count includes monumental wooden crucifixes standing several meters tall, family memorials, tiny crosses no larger than a finger, rosaries draped from larger structures, and statues of the Virgin Mary, the Sacred Heart, and Lithuanian saints.

Pilgrims may bring their own crosses or purchase simple wooden crucifixes from vendors near the visitor center. The tradition holds that leaving a cross brings blessing, while taking one away brings misfortune. Wooden walkways wind through the densest sections, allowing visitors to explore without disturbing the crosses. The atmosphere shifts from crowded intensity at the center to contemplative silence at the edges, where newer crosses stand in relative isolation.

A granite monument near the base bears Pope John Paul II's words: "Thank you, Lithuanians, for this Hill of Crosses which testifies to the nations of Europe and to the whole world the faith of the people of this land."

Address Domantai village, Meškuičiai subdistrict, Šiauliai district, Lithuania GPS 56.0153, 23.4164

Map Google Maps Web kryziukalnas.lt

Franciscan Monastery of the Lithuanian Province of St. Casimir

Kryžių kalno pranciškonų vienuolynas

The monastery stands three hundred meters from the Hill, a modern complex built in response to Pope John Paul II's 1993 appeal. Consecrated on July 8, 2000, it houses Franciscan brothers who serve as custodians of the Hill of Crosses. The cornerstone, cut from Mount La Verna in Italy where Saint Francis received the stigmata, was blessed by the Holy Father and contains founding documents sealed within.

The chapel features stained glass windows by artist Algirdas Dovydenas depicting scenes from Franciscan history, while the altar by sculptor Rimantas Sakalauskas draws visual connections between the Hill of Crosses and La Verna. The monastery contains sixteen cells, a library, and retreat facilities. Pilgrims may attend Mass with the brothers and seek spiritual counsel.

The Franciscans maintain the tradition of the Hill while ensuring it remains accessible to all visitors. Their presence connects this Lithuanian pilgrimage site to the wider Franciscan spiritual heritage and to the Holy Father who recognized its significance.

Address Kryžių kalnas, Meškuičiai subdistrict, Šiauliai district, Lithuania GPS 56.0132, 23.4195

Map Google Maps Web siauliurajonas.lt

Visitor Information Center

The modern visitor center offers restrooms, a small museum explaining the Hill's history, and a gift shop selling crosses, rosaries, and religious articles. Vendors outside sell simple wooden crucifixes suitable for planting on the Hill. Parking costs approximately one euro.

Address Near the Hill of Crosses, Domantai village GPS 56.0145, 23.4180

Hours: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM daily (the Hill itself is accessible 24 hours)

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

Last Sunday of July Pilgrimage

The traditional annual pilgrimage (atlaidai) takes place on the last Sunday of July. Pilgrims gather at Šiauliai Cathedral in the early morning and walk the twelve kilometers to the Hill of Crosses with their bishop, singing hymns and praying the Rosary. The procession follows forest paths rather than the highway—a route first traced on May 19, 2000, under the leadership of Bishop Eugenijus Bartulis. Upon arrival, pilgrims participate in the solemn outdoor Mass, receive special indulgences, and add new crosses to the Hill.

September 7 – Anniversary of the Papal Visit

The anniversary of Pope John Paul II's 1993 visit draws pilgrims who wish to commemorate that historic moment when the Hill of Crosses became known to the world. Special Masses and prayer services mark the occasion, recalling the Holy Father's words and the significance of his presence for Lithuanian Catholics.

Ongoing Pilgrimage

Unlike many pilgrimage sites with fixed feast days, the Hill of Crosses receives pilgrims year-round. Its open-air, always-accessible nature means that any day can become a day of pilgrimage. Many Lithuanians visit on personal anniversaries—births, deaths, recoveries, conversions—to plant a cross marking their prayer or thanksgiving.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Most pilgrims stay in Šiauliai, the nearest city (12 km), which offers a range of accommodation options.

Suncity Hotel & SPA ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Modern city-center hotel with spa facilities, free breakfast, and 24-hour front desk. Comfortable base for day trips to the Hill of Crosses. suncityhotel.lt ∙ Reserve this hotel

Park Hotel Šiauliai SPA & Conference ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Renovated in 2021, situated between two parks with spa and sauna facilities. Popular with pilgrimage groups. parkhotelsiauliai.lt ∙ Reserve this hotel

Grafo Zubovo Hotel & SPA ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Historic 19th-century manor house with ten rooms, swimming pool, and elegant grounds. Located ten minutes from the city center in a peaceful rural setting. grafozubovo.lt ∙ Reserve this hotel

Hotel Šiauliai ⭐⭐⭐ — Soviet-era hotel in the city center with views of Šiauliai Cathedral. Basic but functional accommodation at budget-friendly prices.

Franciscan Monastery (pilgrim accommodation) — The monastery near the Hill offers limited retreat facilities for pilgrims seeking a more contemplative experience. Contact the Franciscan brothers in advance to inquire about availability.

🚗 Getting There

From Šiauliai (12 km):

By Bus: Buses to Joniškis depart from Šiauliai Bus Station (Tilžės g. 109), platform 12. Exit at the Domantai stop—approximately a fifteen-minute ride. From the stop, walk two kilometers along the marked road to the Hill.

By Taxi: A taxi from Šiauliai train station costs approximately EUR 10-15 one way. The Bolt app operates in Lithuania. For a return journey with waiting time, expect to pay around EUR 25.

By Car: Drive north on road A12 toward Riga for approximately ten kilometers. The Hill is well signposted. Free parking available (EUR 1 fee).

From Vilnius (220 km):

By Train: The most comfortable option. Trains depart Vilnius Railway Station at 5:34 AM and 7:05 AM, arriving in Šiauliai in 2 hours 10 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes. Tickets cost EUR 9-17. Book at ltglink.lt.

By Bus: Buses from Vilnius Bus Station (Sodų g. 22) take 3 hours 15 minutes to 3 hours 30 minutes. Tickets cost EUR 18-19.

By Car: Approximately 3 hours via the A1 highway.

From Kaunas (140 km):

By Bus: Approximately 3 hours. Tickets cost EUR 18-20 return. No convenient direct train connection.

By Car: Approximately 1 hour 45 minutes via the A1 and A12 highways.

Traditional Pilgrimage Route:

The July pilgrimage begins at Šiauliai Cathedral (Sts. Peter and Paul) and follows forest paths to the Hill—a twelve-kilometer walk taking approximately three hours. Youth groups and organized pilgrimages walk this route singing hymns and praying the Rosary in the tradition established since the site's earliest days.

📚 Further Reading

Books:

Aleksandras Ostaševkovas. Kryžių Kalnas: Hill of the Cross / Berg Der Kreuze — Trilingual photo book (Lithuanian, English, German) documenting the Hill in 1993. Essential visual record of the site at the time of the papal visit.

Online Resources:

Lithuania's Kryžių Kalnas: Investigating the Layered Histories — Academic article by Ema Noella Kibirkštis examining the Hill's multiple meanings through Lithuanian history. (FOLKLORICA Journal, 2025)

The Hill of Crosses: Lithuania's Symbol of Faith and Resistance — Detailed pilgrimage guide with practical visitor information. (The Catholic Travel Guide)

Sacred Sites in Lithuania — Overview of Lithuanian pilgrimage destinations including the Hill of Crosses. (Lithuania Travel)

🎥 Recommended Videos

Pope John Paul II Visit to the Hill of Crosses, 1993 — Documentary DVD capturing the historic papal pilgrimage available from IHF Film.

Search YouTube for "Hill of Crosses Lithuania" to find numerous travel documentaries, drone footage showing the scale of the cross forest, and personal pilgrimage accounts.

🔗 Useful Links

Hill of Crosses Official Website — Official site with history, visitor information, and virtual tour.

Visit Šiauliai Tourism — Local tourism information with practical details.

Šiauliai District Municipality — Municipal website with information about the Hill and Franciscan Monastery.

St. John Paul II Pilgrim Route — The Hill of Crosses as part of the Lithuanian papal pilgrimage route.

Lithuania Travel — National tourism portal entry for the Hill.

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Šiluva (53 km) — Site of Europe's first Church-recognized Marian apparition (1608). The Basilica of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary hosts Lithuania's largest annual pilgrimage (September 8-16).

Žemaičių Kalvarija (90 km) — The oldest Calvary in Lithuania (founded 1637), featuring nineteen chapels along a seven-kilometer Way of the Cross with traditional Kalnai hymns.

Šiauliai Cathedral (12 km) — The Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul serves as the starting point for the annual July pilgrimage to the Hill of Crosses.

Tytuvėnai Monastery (45 km) — A 17th-18th century Bernardine monastery with the Church of St. Mary Queen of Angels, part of the St. John Paul II Pilgrim Route.

🥾 Pilgrim Routes

Camino Lituano — The Lithuanian segment of the Way of St. James (Šv. Jokūbo kelias) passes near the Hill of Crosses. Pilgrims walking from Vilnius to the Baltic coast can incorporate a visit to this sacred site.

St. John Paul II Pilgrim Route — A route connecting sites visited by the Holy Father during his 1993 Lithuanian pilgrimage, including the Hill of Crosses, Šiluva, Vilnius, and Kaunas.

Šiauliai to the Hill Pilgrimage Path — The traditional twelve-kilometer walking route from Šiauliai Cathedral to the Hill of Crosses, following forest paths rather than roads.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"The Cross is exaltation, a sign of God's love and a sign of eternal life in God. As that cross remains here, so the Pope's prayer remains with you."

— Pope John Paul II, Homily at the Hill of Crosses, September 7, 1993

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Please verify current opening hours and service schedules before visiting. Contact the Franciscan Monastery or the Šiauliai Tourism Information Centre for the most up-to-date information.