The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Aglona, Latvia

Aglona is Latvia's most important Catholic pilgrimage site, home to the Basilica of the Assumption with its miraculous 17th-century icon of Our Lady.

Nestled between the shimmering waters of Lake Cirišs (Cirīšu ezers) and Lake Egles in the pine-forested hills of Latgale, the village of Aglona (Latgalian: Aglyuna) rises as one of the great Marian sanctuaries of Northern Europe. This small settlement of barely a thousand souls has drawn pilgrims for over three centuries, ever since Dominican friars from Vilnius carried a sacred icon of the Virgin Mary to this remote corner of what is now eastern Latvia. Each August 15, the Feast of the Assumption transforms this peaceful countryside into a sea of hundreds of thousands of faithful, arriving on foot from as far as Riga and Liepāja, their voices joining in ancient hymns as night falls over the basilica's twin white towers. The site itself seems to have been touched by the sacred long before Christianity reached these shores. Archaeological evidence suggests Baltic tribes gathered here for worship as early as 1800–500 BC, drawn perhaps by the same mysterious quality that would later make this a place of healing and pilgrimage. History records that it was here, in 1263, that Lithuanian King Mindaugas—the only Lithuanian ruler ever to receive a royal crown from the Pope—met his tragic end alongside his two sons. But it was the arrival of the "white fathers," the Dominican friars, at the turn of the eighteenth century that would transform Aglona into the spiritual heart of Latvian Catholicism.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The story of Aglona as a Catholic sanctuary begins in 1697, when a local Polish noblewoman named Jeta-Justīna Šostovicka, with the support of Livonian Bishop Mikolaj Popławski, invited Dominican friars from Vilnius to establish a monastery and school in the village. In 1699 or 1700, the Dominicans built their first wooden church and placed within it a precious treasure: an icon of the Virgin Mary painted after the model of the celebrated image from Trakai, the ancient Lithuanian capital. According to some traditions, this icon's origins trace even further back—through Vilnius to Byzantium itself, a gift from a Byzantine emperor to Grand Duke Vytautas the Great. Word of healings and answered prayers spread quickly among the local population. Pilgrims began arriving in growing numbers, drawn by accounts of miraculous recoveries attributed to prayers before the icon. The faithful called her "Our Miraculous Lady of Aglona" (Aglonas brīnumdarītāja Dievmāte), and devotion to this image would define the sanctuary's identity for centuries to come. The original wooden church served the growing pilgrimage until tragedy struck in 1699 when fire consumed the building. Undeterred, the Dominicans began planning a grander replacement. Between 1768 and 1780, they constructed the magnificent Late Baroque church that stands today, its twin sixty-meter towers visible for miles across the Latgalian countryside. Bishop Joseph Dominic Puzinas had consecrated the earlier wooden church in 1751; the new stone edifice was finally consecrated by Bishop J. Benislavski in 1800. The nineteenth century brought challenges. As the Russian Empire restricted religious orders, the Dominican community gradually dwindled until the last friar died at century's end, leaving diocesan priests to continue the ministry. Yet devotion to Our Lady of Aglona only intensified among the local population, particularly within the Latgalian community, who kept their Catholic faith alive despite pressures from the Orthodox establishment. A new chapter opened in 1920 when Antonijs Springovičs became the first ethnic Latvian bishop, choosing Aglona as his cathedral before moving to Riga's Cathedral of St. James in 1924. The Theological Seminary opened in the monastery buildings, followed by the Aglona Catholic Gymnasium. The sanctuary became known as the Catholic centre of Latvia, drawing ever more pilgrims to the August 15 celebrations. In 1980, marking the bicentenary of the stone basilica, Pope John Paul II granted the church the prestigious title of Basilica Minor—the only one in Latvia. Thirteen years later, on September 9, 1993, the Pope himself arrived as a pilgrim, celebrating Mass in a specially constructed square before the basilica. The visit came just two years after Latvia regained independence, and hundreds of thousands gathered to welcome the Holy Father in a moment that symbolised the nation's spiritual rebirth. In 1995, the Latvian Parliament passed a law designating Aglona as a "Sacred Site of National Importance." Pope Francis followed in his predecessor's footsteps on September 24, 2018, celebrating Mass in the same square before the venerated icon, which had been brought outdoors for the occasion despite pouring rain. The faithful waited for hours, undeterred by the weather, to pray with the Holy Father at this ancient place of pilgrimage.

☩ Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The Aglona Basilica (Latvian: Aglonas Vissvētākās Jaunavas Marijas debesīs uzņemšanas bazilika) rises in gleaming white splendour between the two lakes, its Italian Late Baroque architecture a striking contrast to the surrounding pine forests. The twin towers, each reaching approximately sixty meters, dominate the landscape and serve as a beacon for approaching pilgrims. Address: Ciriša iela 8, Aglona, Preiļi Municipality, LV-5304, Latvia GPS Coordinates: 56.1265, 27.0146 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: aglonasbaznīca.lv

Interior & Treasures

Stepping through the doors, pilgrims enter a world of Rococo splendour. The interior features groin vaults, elegant arches, and columns adorned with rich ornamental detail dating from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Ten ornate altars line the nave and side chapels, each featuring religious artwork from the period. The pulpit and historic organ date from the late eighteenth century, their craftsmanship a testament to the skill of local artisans. But all eyes are drawn upward to the high altar, where the sacred icon of Our Miraculous Lady of Aglona (Aglonas brīnumdarītāja Dievmāte) resides. This seventeenth-century painting, modelled on the Trakai Virgin, is normally concealed behind an ornate cover and unveiled only during major religious celebrations—most notably during the great August pilgrimage. The icon is believed to possess healing powers, and countless ex-votos and testimonies of answered prayers attest to the faith of generations who have knelt before this image.

Sacred Grounds

Beyond the basilica itself, pilgrims will find several sites of devotion: The Holy Spring — On the shore of Lake Egles, a natural spring has long been attributed with healing properties. Pilgrims collect the water, believing in its blessed nature. The spring is accessible via a short walk from the basilica grounds. The Apparition Hill — Local tradition holds that in 1798, the Virgin Mary appeared to a villager on a hill near the church, prophesying that multitudes would come to this place. A statue of Our Lady marks the spot, and pilgrims still gather here to pray. The Pilgrimage Square — Created in preparation for Pope John Paul II's 1993 visit, this vast sacred enclosure before the basilica accommodates the enormous crowds that gather for the August 15 celebration. It has become an integral part of the basilica's architectural ensemble. Dominican Monastery — The historic monastery buildings, dating from the same period as the church, now house various Church offices and facilities.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

August 15 – Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Basilica of the Assumption, Aglona. The greatest pilgrimage in the Baltic region, drawing upwards of 300,000 faithful from Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Belarus, Russia, and beyond. Pilgrims walk for days from distant cities—those from Liepāja on the western coast travel for over a week. The roads around Aglona fill with streams of devotees as the feast approaches. The night vigil and midnight Mass are particularly moving, with thousands standing together in the pilgrimage square beneath the stars, their candles flickering in the darkness as hymns rise toward the illuminated basilica. Pentecost Basilica of the Assumption, Aglona. The second major pilgrimage draws tens of thousands to celebrate the descent of the Holy Spirit, continuing a centuries-old tradition of gathering at this Marian sanctuary for the great feasts of the Church.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Pilgrim Accommodation

Monastery Guesthouse 📍 Address: Ciriša iela 8, Aglona, LV-5304, Latvia Contact the basilica directly for availability. Limited rooms available, particularly in demand during August. Diocesan Pilgrim Centers The Diocese of Rēzekne-Aglona operates facilities for pilgrims. Contact the diocese for current options and availability.

Hotels & Guesthouses

BALTĀ māja 📍 Address: Aglona, Preiļi Municipality, Latvia 🔗 Booking: Book on Booking.com Recently renovated guesthouse near the basilica with lake views. Simple, clean rooms with traditional Latgalian hospitality. Kalna apartamenti 📍 Address: Aglona, Preiļi Municipality, Latvia Just a six-minute walk from the basilica. Offers free bicycles and parking—ideal for exploring the surrounding lakeland. Eco Boutique Guest House Celmalas 📍 Address: Near Aglona, Preiļi Municipality, Latvia A fourteen-minute walk from the basilica, featuring steam room facilities and a peaceful woodland setting. Idilliska Latgaliešu lauku māja 📍 Address: Near Aglona, Preiļi Municipality, Latvia Traditional Latgalian farmhouse offering an authentic rural experience, complete with spa facilities and a traditional black sauna (melnā pirts).

Practical Tips

  • Book early for August 15 — accommodation fills months in advance for the Assumption celebration
  • Consider Daugavpils (40 km southwest) for a wider range of hotels and restaurants
  • Rural guesthouses offer authentic Latgalian hospitality, often including traditional home-cooked meals
  • Winter visitors should book ahead, as some rural properties close seasonally

🚗 Getting There

By Air

Riga International Airport (RIX) is the nearest major airport, approximately 230 km from Aglona. From Riga, travel by bus or car (roughly 3–4 hours).

By Bus

Regular bus services connect Riga to Aglona, with schedules available at autoosta.lv. The journey takes approximately 4 hours. Buses also connect Daugavpils to Aglona (around 1 hour).

By Train

No direct train service to Aglona. Travellers can take the train from Riga to Daugavpils, then continue by bus or taxi.

By Car

From Riga: Take the A6/E262 toward Daugavpils, then follow signs to Aglona via regional roads (approximately 230 km, 3–3.5 hours). From Daugavpils: Head northeast on the P63, then follow signs to Aglona (approximately 40 km, 45 minutes). From Vilnius, Lithuania: Cross the border at Medininkai/Kamenny Log, proceed to Daugavpils, then continue to Aglona (approximately 180 km, 2.5–3 hours). Parking is available near the basilica, though expect restrictions and heavy congestion during the August pilgrimage.

📚 Further Reading

Books:

  • Kevin J. Wright, Catholic Shrines of Central and Eastern Europe: A Pilgrim's Travel Guide — Comprehensive guide covering major sanctuaries across the region, including Aglona.
  • Latgale: A Catholic Heritage — Explores the distinctive Catholic identity of eastern Latvia.

Articles & Online Resources:

🎥 Recommended Videos

🔗 Useful Links

✝️ Closing Reflection

"This is the main way that Mary shows herself. She stands near those who suffer, those from whom the world flees, including those who have been put on trial, condemned by all, deported... The Mother also stands close by them, steadfast beneath their cross of incomprehension and suffering."

— Pope Francis, Homily at the Shrine of the Mother of God, Aglona, 24 September 2018

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For the most current information on Mass times, pilgrimage schedules, and visiting arrangements, please contact the Basilica of Aglona directly or consult the Diocese of Rēzekne-Aglona.