On a spring day in 1309, Pope Clement V rode into Avignon with his cardinals, seeking refuge from the violent political turmoil that had made Rome uninhabitable. What was intended as a temporary stay would stretch into nearly seven decades, as seven successive popes transformed this modest Provencal city into the magnificent capital of Christendom. The Palais des Papes they built remains the largest Gothic palace in the world, a stone monument to the era when Avignon held the keys of Peter.
The city's papal legacy runs deeper than politics. Within these walls, popes canonized saints, launched crusades, and guided the universal Church through plague and schism. Saint Bridget of Sweden came here to plead for the papacy's return to Rome. Catherine of Siena would follow decades later with the same mission. The cathedral where popes were crowned still stands, its Romanesque tower rising beside the palace, while the famous bridge of Saint Benezet stretches into the Rhone—built, tradition holds, by a shepherd boy who heard heaven's command to span the mighty river.
Today Avignon invites pilgrims to walk where popes once processed, to pray in chapels adorned with medieval frescoes, and to reflect on a pivotal chapter in Church history. The Papal Enclave endured here until the French Revolution, making Avignon one of Catholicism's most enduring temporal possessions outside the Papal States.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The roots of Christianity in Avignon reach back to the 4th century, when a small Christian community established itself in this strategic city at the confluence of the Rhone and Durance rivers. The first cathedral was built around 430, though the present Cathedrale Notre-Dame des Doms dates primarily from the 12th century. By the medieval period, Avignon had become a prosperous city under the nominal rule of the Counts of Provence, though the Church maintained significant influence.
The transformative moment came in 1309 when Pope Clement V, a Frenchman born Bertrand de Got, moved the papal court to Avignon to escape the dangerous faction-ridden politics of Rome. His successor John XXII (1316-1334) made the move permanent, purchasing Avignon from Queen Joanna of Naples in 1348 and beginning the construction of the papal palace. Over the next decades, Benedict XII and Clement VI expanded the Palais des Papes into an architectural marvel covering 15,000 square meters.
Seven popes reigned from Avignon during what historians call the "Avignon Papacy" or, less charitably, the "Babylonian Captivity." These pontiffs—Clement V, John XXII, Benedict XII, Clement VI, Innocent VI, Urban V, and Gregory XI—governed the universal Church, collected tithes from across Europe, and made Avignon a center of art, learning, and diplomacy. The papal administration grew to employ thousands, while cardinals built elaborate residences called livrees throughout the city.
Pope Gregory XI finally returned the papacy to Rome in 1377, persuaded in part by Saint Catherine of Siena's impassioned appeals. But his death the following year triggered the Western Schism (1378-1417), during which rival popes claimed legitimacy from both Rome and Avignon. Two antipopes—Clement VII and Benedict XIII—held court in the palace until 1403, when French forces finally drove Benedict XIII from the city.
Even after the schism's resolution, Avignon remained papal territory. The popes appointed cardinal-legates to govern the city, and it remained part of the Papal States until 1791 when revolutionary France annexed the territory. The palace served various purposes over the centuries—military barracks, prison, archive—before restoration efforts in the 20th century returned it to something approaching its medieval glory.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Avignon
Palais des Papes
Palace of the Popes
The largest Gothic palace ever built stands as the supreme monument of Avignon's papal era. Construction began under Pope Benedict XII in 1335 and continued under Clement VI, who added the Palais Neuf with its magnificent ceremonial halls. The complex covers over 15,000 square meters, with walls reaching 50 meters high and 4 meters thick—a fortress as much as a residence.
Pilgrims enter through the Porte des Champeaux into the main courtyard, where the contrasting styles of the austere Palais Vieux and ornate Palais Neuf reflect their builders' different temperaments. The Consistory Hall witnessed papal consistories where cardinals gathered to advise the pope, while the Grand Chapel hosted coronation ceremonies and solemn liturgies. The private papal apartments, including the Chambre du Cerf with its remarkable hunting frescoes, reveal the human dimension of papal life.
The Chapelle Saint-Martial and Chapelle Saint-Jean contain precious 14th-century frescoes by Matteo Giovannetti, depicting scenes from the lives of Saints Martial and John the Baptist. Though much of the palace's original decoration was lost during the Revolution, these surviving masterpieces offer glimpses of medieval splendor. The Great Audience Hall, where the pope received ambassadors and pilgrims, retains its imposing dimensions even stripped of furnishings.
Cathedrale Notre-Dame des Doms
Cathedral of Our Lady of Doms
Rising beside the papal palace, the Romanesque cathedral served as the papal chapel during the Avignon papacy. The present structure dates primarily from the 12th century, though foundations may trace to the 4th century original. The distinctive gilded statue of the Virgin Mary atop the bell tower, added in 1859, has become an iconic symbol of Avignon visible for miles across the Provencal landscape.
The interior contains the white marble tomb of Pope John XXII, who reigned from 1316 to 1334 and is buried beneath a Gothic canopy in the south aisle. His lengthy pontificate saw the permanent establishment of Avignon as the papal seat and the beginning of the palace construction. The cathedral also houses the tombs of Pope Benedict XII in the sanctuary and several cardinal-legates who governed after the papacy's return to Rome.
The 12th-century Romanesque throne in the choir, carved from a single block of white marble, served as the papal cathedra. The side chapels contain various relics and devotional images, while the treasury preserves liturgical objects from the papal era. The cathedral remains an active place of worship and the seat of the Archbishop of Avignon.
Pont Saint-Benezet
Saint Benezet's Bridge
The famous Pont d'Avignon of the children's song began as a miracle. According to tradition, a young shepherd named Benezet received a divine command in 1177 to build a bridge across the Rhone—a feat considered impossible. When the bishop demanded proof of his mission, Benezet lifted an enormous stone that thirty men could not move. Construction began immediately and was completed by 1185, with Benezet buried in a chapel on the bridge itself upon his death.
Originally spanning 900 meters with 22 arches, the bridge connected Avignon to Villeneuve-les-Avignon on the opposite bank. It was the only crossing of the Rhone between Lyon and the sea, making it strategically and commercially vital. Floods repeatedly damaged the structure, and after the catastrophic flood of 1669, authorities abandoned repair attempts. Today only four arches remain, ending dramatically in the middle of the river.
The Chapel of Saint Benezet, rebuilt in the 13th century, stands on one of the surviving piers. Pilgrims can visit the chapel where the saint's relics were originally kept (now in the Church of Saint-Didier). The bridge and its legend embody medieval faith in divine intervention and the power of humble obedience.
Eglise Saint-Didier
Church of Saint Didier
This 14th-century Gothic church, built during the Avignon papacy, houses one of the city's most venerated works of religious art: the Notre-Dame du Spasme (Our Lady of the Spasm), a remarkable altarpiece by Francesco Laurana depicting Mary's anguish at the Crucifixion. Carved between 1478 and 1481, this masterpiece of early Renaissance sculpture draws pilgrims seeking to contemplate Mary's suffering.
The church also preserves the relics of Saint Benezet, the shepherd-saint who built the famous bridge. After the bridge chapel became inaccessible, his remains were translated here in 1674. A side chapel contains his reliquary and commemorates his miraculous life.
The austere Provencal Gothic architecture, with its single nave and side chapels, provides an intimate setting for prayer away from the tourist crowds at the palace. The church remains an active parish and welcomes pilgrims for quiet devotion.
Eglise Saint-Pierre
Church of Saint Peter
Rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries on the site of an earlier church, Saint-Pierre features a magnificent Flamboyant Gothic facade added in 1512. The intricately carved wooden doors, dating from 1551, depict the Annunciation and are considered masterpieces of Renaissance woodcarving in Provence.
The interior contains baroque furnishings and a notable 15th-century pulpit. The church stands in a quiet square away from the main tourist circuit, offering pilgrims a contemplative space within the historic center. It serves as a reminder that Avignon's spiritual life extended beyond the papal palace to neighborhood parishes serving ordinary faithful.
Chartreuse du Val de Benediction
Charterhouse of the Valley of Blessing
Founded by Pope Innocent VI in 1356, this Carthusian monastery became one of the largest charterhouses in Europe. The pope himself is buried here in an elaborate Gothic tomb within the church. The complex sprawls across nearly four hectares, with three cloisters, the church, chapter house, and individual monks' cells each with private garden—embodying the Carthusian balance of communal worship and solitary contemplation.
Though the monks departed during the Revolution and much was destroyed, substantial portions survive and have been restored. Pilgrims can walk the Great Cloister, visit the church with Innocent VI's tomb, and explore the atmospheric ruins. The charterhouse now hosts cultural events while maintaining an atmosphere conducive to reflection on monastic spirituality.
Fort Saint-Andre and Abbey
Across the Rhone in Villeneuve-les-Avignon, this medieval fortress and Benedictine abbey offers panoramic views of the papal city. The Abbaye Saint-Andre was founded in the 10th century on the site of a 6th-century shrine. Though largely ruined, the abbey church and gardens have been beautifully restored, providing a peaceful pilgrimage complement to Avignon's busier sites.
The fort's massive twin towers were built by the French kings to assert their presence opposite the papal territory. The juxtaposition of royal fortress and papal city across the river vividly illustrates the political tensions of the medieval period.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of Saint Benezet — April 14
The city commemorates its bridge-building saint with special observances at the Church of Saint-Didier, where his relics repose. A Mass in his honor recalls the shepherd boy's miraculous mission and the faith that moved stones.
Feast of Pope Saint Celestine V — May 19
Though not an Avignon pope, Celestine V—who famously abdicated in 1294—is remembered in the city as his resignation paved the way for Clement V and the eventual move to Avignon. Some parishes mark his feast with reflections on papal history.
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary — August 15
The patronal feast of the cathedral draws the faithful for solemn Mass beneath the gilded statue of Our Lady that crowns the bell tower. Processions and special liturgies honor Mary's assumption into heaven.
Heritage Days — Third Weekend of September
The annual Journees du Patrimoine opens normally restricted areas of the Palais des Papes and other historic sites, offering pilgrims rare access to papal apartments and chapels usually closed to visitors.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hotel de l'Horloge ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Elegant hotel facing the Place de l'Horloge, steps from the Palais des Papes. Historic building with modern amenities and rooftop terrace views. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel Cloitre Saint-Louis ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — A 16th-century Jesuit cloister converted to a refined hotel, blending historic architecture with contemporary comfort. Pool and peaceful gardens within the city walls. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel d'Europe ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Avignon's most prestigious address, occupying a 16th-century mansion where Napoleon once stayed. Refined service and an acclaimed restaurant in the heart of the historic center. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel de Blauvac ⭐⭐⭐ — Charming hotel in a 17th-century townhouse near the Palais des Papes. Family-run with personal service and excellent value within the ramparts. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
LFAJ Avignon (pilgrim hostel) — Youth hostel in a historic building outside the walls on Ile de la Barthelasse, offering budget accommodations with river views and a peaceful setting. Website
Maison d'Hotes Sous l'Olivier (B&B) — Family-run bed and breakfast in a quiet neighborhood within the walls, offering personal hospitality and local knowledge. Website
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Avignon-Provence Airport (AVN) offers seasonal flights and is 8 km from the city center. Marseille Provence Airport (MRS), 80 km south, has extensive international connections with regular bus service to Avignon TGV station.
By Train: Avignon has two stations. Avignon TGV, 4 km south of the center, receives high-speed trains from Paris (2 hours 40 minutes), Lyon (1 hour), and Marseille (35 minutes). Avignon Centre station, within the walls, handles regional trains. Free shuttle buses connect TGV station to the city center.
By Bus: FlixBus and regional buses serve Avignon from major French cities. The bus station is adjacent to the train station outside the walls.
By Car: From Paris, take the A7 motorway south (680 km, approximately 6 hours). From Lyon, follow the A7 south (230 km, 2 hours 15 minutes). Parking within the walls is limited; use the Parking des Italiens or Parking Palais des Papes. Free parking is available on Ile de la Barthelasse with a free shuttle to the center.
On Foot: Avignon lies on the Via Tolosana, one of the four French routes of the Camino de Santiago. Pilgrims walking from Arles can reach Avignon in two to three days.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Edwin Mullins, Avignon of the Popes: City of Exiles — Accessible narrative history of the Avignon papacy and its lasting impact on the city and the Church.
Joelle Rollo-Koster, Avignon and Its Papacy, 1309-1417 — Scholarly examination of how the papal court transformed Avignon and shaped late medieval Christianity.
Barbara Tuchman, A Distant Mirror: The Calamitous 14th Century — Pulitzer-winning history that vividly portrays the world of the Avignon popes amid plague, war, and schism.
Online Resources:
New Advent Catholic Encyclopedia: Avignon — Authoritative entry on the city's papal history and ecclesiastical significance.
UNESCO: Historic Centre of Avignon — Official World Heritage listing with historical overview and conservation information.
🎥 Recommended Videos
The Avignon Papacy - History Documentary — Comprehensive documentary exploring how and why the papacy relocated to France and the lasting consequences.
Palais des Papes Virtual Tour — High-quality visual exploration of the papal palace with historical commentary.
🔗 Useful Links
Avignon Tourisme — Official tourism office with visitor information, events, and practical details.
Archdiocese of Avignon — Diocesan website with parish information, Mass schedules, and pastoral resources.
Palais des Papes — Official palace website with visiting hours, tickets, and historical information.
SNCF — French national railway for train bookings to Avignon.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Via Tolosana (Camino de Santiago) — One of the four historic French routes to Santiago de Compostela passes through Avignon. Pilgrims following this path from Arles continue west toward Toulouse and the Pyrenees. The route connects Saint-Gilles (20 km south) and continues through [Montpellier] toward Spain.
Chemin d'Assise — A pilgrimage route from Vezelay to Assisi passes through the Rhone Valley. Pilgrims can connect to this route via Vezelay to the north.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Saint-Gilles (20 km southwest) — Once the fourth greatest pilgrimage site in Christendom, Saint-Gilles preserves the tomb and UNESCO-listed Romanesque facade of the hermit saint.
Apt (55 km east) — The ancient cathedral claims to possess the relics of Saint Anne, mother of the Virgin Mary, discovered during Charlemagne's reign.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (40 km south) — Camargue village where tradition holds that Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome, and Mary Jacobi landed after fleeing the Holy Land.
Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume (100 km southeast) — Gothic basilica housing the relics of Saint Mary Magdalene, the Apostle to the Apostles.
Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume (110 km southeast) — The sacred grotto where Mary Magdalene lived as a hermit for thirty years, one of Christianity's oldest pilgrimage sites.
Cotignac (130 km southeast) — The only place in the world where all three members of the Holy Family appeared, with shrines to Our Lady of Graces and Saint Joseph.
Marseille (100 km south) — France's oldest city, home to Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica and major Assumption pilgrimages.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"You will not fear the terror of the night, nor the arrow that flies by day, nor the pestilence that stalks in darkness, nor the destruction that wastes at noonday." — Psalm 91:5-6, inscribed on the walls of the Palais des Papes
The Avignon popes inscribed these words of the 91st Psalm on their fortress-palace, trusting in divine protection amid the perils of their age—plague, war, schism, and political intrigue. Seven centuries later, pilgrims walking these same stones find that the need for such trust has not diminished. Avignon reminds us that the Church has weathered every storm, guided not by the strength of its walls but by the providence of the One who promised to remain with her until the end of the age.
