The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Salerno, Italy

Salerno guards one of Christianity's most precious treasures: the relics of Saint Matthew, the tax collector whom Christ called to become an apostle and evangelist. Since 954 AD, when merchants brought his bones from Paestum where they had lain hidden for centuries, this ancient port city on the Tyrrhenian coast has drawn pilgrims seeking the intercession of the man who wrote the first Gospel. The cathedral also holds the tomb of Pope Gregory VII, who died here in exile after his dramatic struggle with Emperor Henry IV over the freedom of the Church. His final words—"I have loved justice and hated iniquity; therefore I die in exile"—are carved into his sarcophagus in the right transept. For more than nine hundred years, the people of Salerno have refused all requests to return his body to Rome.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The story of Saint Matthew's relics in Salerno begins with concealment and ends with rediscovery. When the apostle was martyred in Ethiopia around 70 AD, his remains eventually made their way to Paestum, the ancient Greek colony south of Salerno. There they lay hidden during the upheavals of the early medieval period until 954 AD, when Salernitans brought them to their city for safekeeping. Robert Guiscard, the Norman duke who conquered southern Italy, commissioned the present cathedral in 1076 to house the relics worthily. Archbishop Alfano I, himself a physician, poet, and former abbot of Monte Cassino, oversaw the construction. The crypt was inaugurated in March 1081, and Pope Gregory VII consecrated the completed church in July 1084—just months before he would die within its walls. Gregory had fled Rome after excommunicating Emperor Henry IV in their bitter contest over investiture—the emperor's claimed right to appoint bishops. Robert Guiscard's Norman troops rescued the pope from the emperor's siege, but their brutal sacking of Rome made Gregory so hated that he could never return. He spent his final year in Salerno, dying on May 25, 1085. Canonized in 1728 by Benedict XIII, he remains the only pope buried in Salerno. The cathedral became home to the famed Schola Medica Salernitana, Europe's first medical school, which flourished from the 10th through 13th centuries. Two chapels within the complex—the Sala San Lazzaro and the Sala San Tommaso—served as teaching halls. Thomas Aquinas himself taught theology in the upper chapel between 1259 and 1273. A unique tradition connects Salerno to Matthew's evangelistic work: the "Manna of Saint Matthew." For centuries, a mysterious liquid collected in the tomb through a bronze cylinder pierced into the sarcophagus via the fenestella confessionis. The tradition ceased in 1890 when calcium deposits blocked the opening. But in 2023, during restoration work, the manna unexpectedly reappeared. It is now collected twice yearly, on May 6 and September 21, reviving a practice thought lost to history.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Salerno

Cattedrale di Santa Maria degli Angeli, San Matteo e San Gregorio VII

Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Angels, Saint Matthew, and Saint Gregory VII Address: Piazza Alfano I, 84125 Salerno GPS Coordinates: 40.680000, 14.760280 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: Cattedrale di Salerno Dedication: Saint Matthew the Apostle and Evangelist Historical Note: Founded in 1076 by Robert Guiscard and consecrated by Pope Gregory VII in 1084. The Norman-Romanesque structure was remodeled in Baroque style after a 1688 earthquake, then partially restored to its medieval appearance in the 1930s. Spiritual Importance: Houses the complete relics of Saint Matthew beneath the high altar in the crypt. The only cathedral in Italy outside of Rome to contain an apostle's complete remains. Pope Gregory VII's tomb in the right transept makes Salerno one of only two places where papal relics lie permanently outside Rome.

The Crypt of Saint Matthew

Beneath the cathedral lies the heart of Salerno's pilgrimage—a barrel-vaulted hall restored by Domenico Fontana and his son Giulio between 1606 and 1608. The ceiling frescoes by Belisario Corenzio depict scenes from Matthew's Gospel alongside episodes from Salerno's history, including the city's legendary deliverance from pirates through the saint's intercession. At the center stands Michelangelo Naccherino's bronze statue of Saint Matthew, cast in 1606. The sculptor gave the evangelist two faces: one for pilgrims approaching from the nave, another for those entering from the side—a meditation on the multiple perspectives within Matthew's Gospel itself. An angel hands the saint an inkwell, symbolizing his work as evangelist. Below, the stone altar marks the apostle's resting place. The gravestone inscription records that Archbishop Alfano placed the body here in 1081 in the presence of the Byzantine Emperor Michael and Duke Robert Guiscard.

The Tomb of Pope Gregory VII

In the right transept, a chapel covered with mosaic work contains the sarcophagus of the reforming pope who gave his name to the Gregorian Reforms. The epitaph preserves his final words: "Dilexi iustitiam et odivi iniquitatem; propterea morior in exilio"—"I have loved justice and hated iniquity; therefore I die in exile." Three days before his death, he withdrew all his excommunications except those against Henry IV and the antipope Clement III. The people of Salerno have guarded these remains fiercely. For over nine centuries they have refused every papal request to transfer Gregory's body to St. Peter's Basilica, where nearly all other popes are buried.

The Quadriportico

Before entering the cathedral, pilgrims pass through one of only two medieval quadriporticos surviving in Italy—the other is at Sant'Ambrogio in Milan. Twenty-eight ancient columns, salvaged from Roman buildings, support pointed arches showing Islamic influence from Salerno's centuries of trade with the Arab world. Roman sarcophagi line the walls, repurposed as tombs for medieval nobles. The 52-meter bell tower, built between 1137 and 1152, combines Norman, Arab, and Byzantine elements in its geometric stone patterns. At the main entrance, the Porta dei Leoni takes its name from the marble lion and lioness guarding the 12th-century doorway—symbols of the Church's power and charity. The massive Byzantine bronze doors, cast in Constantinople in the 11th century, contain 54 panels depicting saints, biblical scenes, and the cathedral's donors.

Treasury Chapel

The treasury preserves silver reliquaries containing the arm of Saint Matthew and a 13th-century silver statue group of the Salerno Martyrs: Saints Gaius, Fortunatus, and Ante, whose feast falls on August 30. These three saints, martyred during the Diocletian persecution, share patronage of the city with Matthew.

Chiesa di San Giorgio

Church of Saint George First documented in 819 AD as a cell dependent on the Benedictine monastery of San Vincenzo al Volturno, this church became a convent for Benedictine nuns in 1163. The present Baroque structure dates from 1647-1674, built over an 8th-century church. Angelo and Francesco Solimena, father and son, painted the magnificent frescoes spanning the 17th and 18th centuries. In 1560, Abbess Lucrezia Santomagno commissioned the Renaissance portal that still graces the entrance. But the church's most remarkable feature lies hidden: archaeological excavations beneath the floor revealed a frescoed apse from the Lombard period (8th-10th century), the only surviving evidence of Lombard painting in Salerno. The geometric motifs and saintly figures offer a rare glimpse of pre-Norman Christian art. The convent was suppressed in the 19th century. Today the complex houses Carabinieri and Guardia di Finanza barracks, though the church opens for concerts and cultural events.

Chiesa di Santa Maria de Lama

Church of Saint Mary of the Stream Named for the Lama stream flowing beneath the street, this modest church conceals eleven centuries of worship. Built in the 10th-11th century during Salerno's Lombard period, it sits atop a 2nd-century Roman structure. The two-level building contains a Baroque upper church renovated in the 17th century and a crypt preserving Lombard frescoes from the 10th-13th centuries. The lower church displays the only extant Lombard-era paintings in Salerno—geometric patterns and fragmentary figures of saints, three of which remain legible. Upstairs, fragments of a Christ and Magdalene scene survive from the medieval decoration. The site is maintained by Touring Club Italia volunteers and opens Saturdays and Sundays from 10:00 to 13:00. Located on Via Duomo, it lies five minutes' walk from the more famous San Pietro a Corte complex.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

Feast of Saint Matthew — September 21

The patronal feast transforms Salerno's historic center into a river of devotion. Silver statues of the four city patrons—Saint Matthew and the martyrs Gaius, Fortunatus, and Ante—emerge from the cathedral for a solemn procession through streets their bearers' ancestors have walked for centuries. The route follows Corso Vittorio Emanuele to Via Velia, then Via Roma, Via Portacatena, Via dei Mercanti, and back to the cathedral. At the Palazzo della Provincia, the statue of Matthew is rotated to face the sea for a blessing of the waters. At the Palazzo del Comune, the mayor and city council receive the saint's benediction. The procession pauses at the Guardia di Finanza barracks—Matthew, the converted tax collector, is the patron of tax officers and accountants. A legend dating to 1544 credits Matthew with saving Salerno from the Ottoman pirate Hayreddin Barbarossa. When his fleet appeared off the coast, the people prayed desperately to their patron. A sudden storm scattered the ships, and Barbarossa withdrew without attacking. One month before the feast, on August 21, the "Calata del Panno" ceremony raises a ceremonial cloth over the cathedral, signaling the beginning of the festival period. The feast itself culminates with midnight fireworks over the harbor.

Translation of the Relics — May 6

This secondary feast commemorates the 954 AD arrival of Matthew's relics in Salerno from their hiding place in Paestum. Though less prominent than the September celebration, the day includes special Masses and the collection of the Manna of Saint Matthew—a tradition recently restored after over a century of dormancy.

Feast of Pope Saint Gregory VII — May 25

The anniversary of Gregory VII's death in Salerno receives particular observance in the cathedral that has guarded his tomb since 1085. The liturgical memorial, raised to feast rank in Salerno, draws pilgrims interested in the reforming pope's legacy.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Casa Santangelo Suites — The former summer residence of the Marquis of Naples, restored as a boutique bed and breakfast in the heart of the Centro Storico. Rooms feature original 19th-century ceiling frescoes, antique furnishings, and modern comforts. Steps from the Duomo and the Lungomare promenade. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Hotel Montestella — A family-run hotel on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Salerno's main pedestrian shopping street. Located 400 meters from the train station and 800 meters from the cathedral, offering convenient access to both the historic center and transport connections. Buffet breakfast included. Reserve this hotel B&B Peter Pan — A small family-run guesthouse on Via dei Mercanti, directly on the September 21 procession route. The location places pilgrims at the heart of the celebration during the patronal feast. Reserve this hotel

🚗 Getting There

By Air: Naples International Airport (NAP), 50 kilometers northwest, offers the most convenient access. Take the Alibus to Naples Centrale station (30 minutes, €5), then a train to Salerno (34-42 minutes, €5-11). Direct buses operated by SITA Sud and Buonocore also connect the airport to Salerno in approximately 80 minutes (€7). Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport (QSR), opened to commercial flights in 2024, lies 20 kilometers southeast. The Salerno Airlink bus reaches the train station in 40 minutes (€5, plus €5 per large bag). Fixed taxi rates: €50 to Salerno center, €25 to nearby Pontecagnano. By Train: Salerno Centrale station receives high-speed Frecciarossa trains from Rome (approximately 1 hour 45 minutes), Naples (36 minutes), and cities throughout Italy. Twenty-four daily departures connect Naples and Salerno. The station lies 800 meters from the cathedral, a 10-minute walk along Corso Vittorio Emanuele. By Car: From the A3 Naples-Salerno motorway, take the Salerno Centro exit and follow signs to the Centro Storico. Limited traffic zones restrict access to the historic center; park in designated areas near the station or waterfront and proceed on foot. By Ferry: During the tourist season (May-October), ferries from the Concordia port—directly across from the train station—connect Salerno to Amalfi, Positano, and other Amalfi Coast destinations. SITA Sud buses from the station also serve the coastal towns.

📚 Further Reading

Online Resources: Pope St. Gregory VII — Comprehensive biography from the Catholic Encyclopedia covering his struggles with Emperor Henry IV and death in Salerno. (New Advent) Cattedrale di Salerno — Official cathedral website with information on the crypt, liturgical schedule, and the tradition of the Manna of Saint Matthew. (Italian) Duomo di Salerno — Municipal page with visitor information, opening hours, and historical overview. (Comune di Salerno, Italian)

🔗 Useful Links

Cattedrale di Salerno — Official cathedral website with Mass times, history, and visitor information. (Italian) Comune di Salerno Tourism — Municipal tourism portal with accommodation, events, and transport information. Trenitalia — Italian national railway for train schedules and tickets to Salerno.

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Pompeii (25 km) — The Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary, built by the convert Bartolo Longo beginning in 1876, draws over four million pilgrims annually. The miraculous image of the Madonna of the Rosary has been credited with countless healings. Amalfi (25 km) — The Cathedral of Saint Andrew houses the relics of the apostle Andrew, Peter's brother, brought from Constantinople in 1208. The crypt beneath the baroque altar contains his remains. Naples (55 km) — The cathedral guards the blood of Saint Januarius, which liquefies three times yearly in a miracle documented since 1389. The city also preserves the catacombs of San Gennaro and numerous baroque churches. Mugnano del Cardinale (60 km) — Shrine of Saint Philomena, the "Wonder-Worker" whose relics arrived in 1805. The Sanctuary welcomes pilgrims with guesthouse accommodations for those seeking extended retreat. Paestum (80 km) — The ancient Greek colony where Saint Matthew's relics lay hidden for centuries before their translation to Salerno in 954 AD. The site includes magnificently preserved Greek temples and an archaeological museum.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"I have loved justice and hated iniquity; therefore I die in exile."

— Pope Saint Gregory VII, final words spoken at Salerno, May 25, 1085