The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Kodeń, Poland

Kodeń is a renowned Catholic pilgrimage site home to the miraculous icon of Our Lady of Kodeń, drawing faithful seeking Marian intercession.

On the banks of the Bug River, just a few hundred meters from the Polish-Belarusian border, stands a sanctuary with one of the most extraordinary origin stories in Christendom. In 1631, a paralyzed Polish nobleman named Mikołaj Pius Sapieha—driven by his wife's faith and his own desperation—undertook an arduous pilgrimage to Rome. There, in the papal chapel, he experienced a miraculous healing before an image of the Virgin Mary. What happened next would scandalize the Vatican and ultimately bless Poland with one of its most beloved icons. The story goes that Sapieha, consumed by love for the image that had healed him, begged Pope Urban VIII to give it to him. The Pope refused. Undeterred, Sapieha allegedly bribed the papal sacristan with 500 gold coins and fled to Poland with the painting. The Pope's response was swift: excommunication. For years, Sapieha kept the image in his church at Kodeń but, forbidden from entering any church, could only gaze upon his beloved Madonna through a window from the sacristy. Eventually, the Pope—recognizing Sapieha's service to the Catholic faith—lifted the ban and officially gifted him the image. Cardinal Karol Wojtyła, the future Pope John Paul II, would later joke: "In Kodeń you have an image that belongs to the Pope." Today, the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Kodeń draws approximately 200,000 pilgrims annually. The Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate, who have cared for the sanctuary since 1927, maintain a sprawling complex that includes the basilica, a modern pilgrim center, a Calvary with nearly 100 life-sized sculptures, the evocative ruins of the Sapieha castle, and a peaceful herbal garden. Whether you come as a devout pilgrim seeking Mary's intercession or as a curious traveler drawn by the remarkable tale of a nobleman's holy heist, Kodeń offers a unique window into the passionate faith of the Polish borderlands.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The town of Kodeń traces its origins to the 16th century, when Jan Sapieha purchased the settlement on the Bug River and established it as a fortified town in 1511. The Sapieha family, one of Poland-Lithuania's most prominent noble dynasties, would shape Kodeń's destiny for centuries. The first wooden church was built around 1599, replaced by the current brick basilica between 1629 and 1635 in the late Renaissance style with a baroque facade. The defining moment came in 1631, when Mikołaj Pius Sapieha brought the Gregorian Madonna—so called because it was said to be a copy of an image venerated by Pope St. Gregory the Great, itself traced back to St. Luke the Evangelist. Sapieha's miraculous healing and the dramatic story of the image's acquisition captured the imagination of the faithful. Word of graces received through Our Lady of Kodeń spread rapidly, and pilgrims began making their way to this remote corner of Podlasie. In 1723, Pope Innocent XIII granted papal crowns for the image, which were placed upon it by Bishop Stefan Rupniewski—a recognition of the many favors attributed to Our Lady of Kodeń. The ninth Sapieha lord of Kodeń, Jan Fryderyk, had petitioned Rome for this honor, and the coronation ceremony drew thousands of the faithful. The image endured a 52-year exile during the Russian partition. Following the failed January Uprising of 1864, tsarist authorities stripped Kodeń of its town charter, suppressed the Catholic parish, and confiscated the miraculous image, sending it to Jasna Góra in Częstochowa. There it remained in the chapel of the Sacred Heart until 1927, when, following Poland's independence, Bishop Henryk Przeździecki arranged for its solemn return and invited the Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate to assume care of the sanctuary. The Oblates have transformed Kodeń into a comprehensive pilgrimage destination. In 1930, they began developing the castle ruins into a Calvary, and throughout the 20th century added a pilgrim's house, restaurant, mission museum, and restored the castle cellars. In August 2023, the sanctuary celebrated the 300th anniversary of the coronation with new crowns blessed by Pope Francis. Cardinal Stanisław Dziwisz—long-time secretary to Pope John Paul II—presided over the jubilee Mass, which drew an estimated 35,000 pilgrims on the Feast of the Assumption.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Kodeń

The sanctuary complex spreads across the historic town center, incorporating religious buildings, castle ruins, and gardens in a walkable area. The Bug River flows nearby, and the peaceful parkland invites contemplation between visits to the sacred sites.

Basilica of St. Anne (Bazylika św. Anny)

Local Name: Bazylika św. Anny z cudownym obrazem Matki Bożej Kodeńskiej Address: ul. Rynek 1, 21-509 Kodeń, Poland GPS Coordinates: 51.91360, 23.60750 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: koden.com.pl Dedication: St. Anne, Our Lady of Kodeń Historical Note: The present basilica was constructed between 1629 and 1635 in place of an earlier wooden church that burned down. The building combines late Renaissance architecture with a baroque facade, creating a harmonious whole that has witnessed nearly four centuries of prayer. The interior features rich stucco ornamentation and a magnificent main altar housing the miraculous image. Spiritual Importance: The focal point of every pilgrimage is the miraculous image of Our Lady of Kodeń, displayed above the main altar. The painting shows Mary in royal robes, holding the Christ Child in her left arm and a scepter in her right—an iconographic type known as the Hodegetria or "She who shows the way." Pilgrims come to pray before the image, seeking healing, guidance, and spiritual renewal. The Oblate priests celebrate Mass daily and are available for confession. Pope John Paul II, who visited Kodeń multiple times as Cardinal, bestowed upon the image the title "Mother of Unity" (Matka Jedności), emphasizing Mary's role as a bridge-builder in this borderland region where Catholic, Orthodox, and Eastern traditions have long intersected.

Kalwaria Kodeńska (Calvary of Kodeń)

Address: Adjacent to the Basilica, within the sanctuary grounds GPS Coordinates: 51.91385, 23.60680 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Dedication: The Passion of Christ Historical Note: The Calvary was developed beginning in 1930, when Father Paweł Kulawy collaborated with artist Marian Kiersnowski to transform the old castle grounds into a sacred space. The castle's arsenal ruins were incorporated into the design, with a mound topped by a tall cross (visible from afar) built behind the old armory. In the cellars, they installed sculptures depicting the Sorrowful Mother holding her dead Son and Christ lying in the tomb. The Calvary was blessed by Auxiliary Bishop Czesław Sokołowski on May 5, 1931. Spiritual Importance: The Calvary features nearly 100 life-sized sculptures by Tadeusz Niewiadomski, spread across 14 chapels representing the Stations of the Cross. The route winds along the old castle ramparts, offering pilgrims a meditative journey through Christ's Passion. A platform built over the restored castle cellars serves as an outdoor altar for major celebrations. The Martyrologium section commemorates significant historical events, while the Grotto of Jesus in Gethsemane and the Chapel of the Holy Family provide quiet spaces for prayer.

Herbal Garden of Our Lady (Ogród Zielny Matki Bożej)

Address: Within the sanctuary grounds GPS Coordinates: 51.91370, 23.60640 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Historical Note: This contemplative garden was created as part of the sanctuary's expansion, drawing on the Polish tradition of blessing herbs on the Feast of the Assumption. The garden is laid out like a labyrinth, inviting slow, prayerful walking. Spiritual Importance: The garden connects visitors with the ancient folk tradition of Matka Boża Zielna ("Our Lady of the Herbs"), celebrated on August 15, when Poles bring bouquets of seven different herbs, flowers, and grains to be blessed. A Fountain of Purification stands at the garden's heart. The space offers respite for pilgrims seeking quiet reflection amid the beauty of creation.

Sapieha Castle Ruins (Ruiny Zamku Sapiehów)

Address: Within the sanctuary grounds GPS Coordinates: 51.91400, 23.60720 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Historical Note: Only the chapel and basement of the original Sapieha castle remain, but these fragments are now integrated into the Calvary complex. The restored cellars, with their massive stone vaults, have been transformed into sacred spaces. Spiritual Importance: The castle ruins connect pilgrims with the Sapieha family legacy and the origins of the sanctuary. The chapel within the ruins offers an intimate setting for private prayer, while the cellars house devotional sculptures.

Church of the Holy Spirit (Kościół Świętego Ducha)

Address: Within the Calvary grounds GPS Coordinates: 51.91395, 23.60660 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Historical Note: This church forms part of the Calvary complex, situated along the Stations of the Cross path. Spiritual Importance: The church contains devotional artwork and serves as a station along the Calvary route. A figure of St. Florian stands nearby, and the Grotto of Jesus in Gethsemane is adjacent to the church.

Missionary and Ornithological Museum

Address: ul. Rynek 1, 21-509 Kodeń (within Dom Pielgrzyma complex) Historical Note: The Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate operate a museum showcasing artifacts from their missions around the world, combined with an ornithological collection. Spiritual Importance: The museum reminds visitors of the Church's universal mission and the Oblate charism of evangelization. It offers a unique educational experience for pilgrims of all ages.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

August 15 – Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Wniebowzięcie Najświętszej Maryi Panny) Basilica of St. Anne and Outdoor Altar. The principal feast day at Kodeń draws tens of thousands of pilgrims for solemn Masses, processions, and all-night vigils. Pilgrims bring bouquets of herbs, flowers, and grains to be blessed according to the ancient Polish tradition of Matka Boża Zielna—Our Lady of the Herbs. In 2023, the 300th anniversary of the coronation drew an estimated 35,000 pilgrims on this day. July 26 – Feast of Saints Anne and Joachim Basilica of St. Anne. As the patronal feast of the basilica, this day honors St. Anne, mother of the Blessed Virgin Mary and grandmother of Jesus. Special Masses and devotions are celebrated throughout the day.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Dom Pielgrzyma w Kodniu (Pilgrim's House) 📍 Address: ul. Rynek 1, 21-509 Kodeń, Poland 🌐 Website: dompielgrzyma.koden.com.pl 🔗 Booking: Book on Booking.com The official pilgrim accommodation run by the Missionary Oblates, offering 225 beds in rooms of varying standards. The complex includes the "U Oblatów" restaurant serving traditional Polish cuisine, conference facilities, and the Oblate shop. Built in phases from 2000-2007, the Pilgrim's House is the largest accommodation provider in the region and is ideally situated steps from the basilica. Agroturystyka Stara Kuźnia 📍 Address: Nearby Kodeń area Rural farmstay accommodation offering a peaceful countryside experience near the Bug River. Hotels in Biała Podlaska 📍 Address: Biała Podlaska (42 km from Kodeń) The nearest city with a full range of hotels, including 3- and 4-star options, restaurants, and services. Biała Podlaska makes a practical base for those exploring the region.

🚗 Getting There

By Car: Kodeń is located in Lublin Voivodeship, 19 km from Terespol, 42 km from Biała Podlaska, 130 km from Lublin, and 206 km from Warsaw. The sanctuary provides parking facilities. By Bus: Regional bus services connect Kodeń with Biała Podlaska and Terespol. The "Kodeń Kościół" bus stop is adjacent to the sanctuary. By Train: The nearest major railway stations are in Biała Podlaska and Terespol, with connections to Warsaw and Lublin. From there, regional buses or taxis complete the journey to Kodeń. By Air: The nearest international airports are Warsaw Chopin Airport (206 km) and Lublin Airport (140 km). Car rental is available at both airports. Note on Border Location: Kodeń is situated just 300 meters from the Polish-Belarusian border. The sanctuary has become a place of prayer for peace in the region, particularly since the conflicts in neighboring Ukraine.

📚 Further Reading

Books:

  • Zofia Kossak-Szczucka, Błogosławiona wina ("The Blessed Fault") – A literary retelling of Mikołaj Sapieha's journey to Rome and the legendary theft of the image.
  • Norman Davies, God's Playground: A History of Poland (Amazon) – Essential historical context for understanding Poland's Catholic heritage and eastern borderlands.

Articles & Online Resources:

🎥 Recommended Videos

🔗 Useful Links

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

  • Jabłeczna (15 km) – Orthodox Monastery of St. Onuphrius, one of the oldest monasteries in Poland.
  • Terespol (19 km) – Border town with churches serving the local Catholic community.
  • Biała Podlaska (42 km) – Historic town with Baroque churches and the Radziwiłł Palace.
  • Częstochowa (400 km) – Jasna Góra, Poland's national Marian shrine, where the Kodeń image was sheltered for 52 years.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"Mother of Unity, teach us constantly the ways that lead to unity."

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— Pope St. John Paul II, Prayer at Jasna Góra