In 1491, a Franciscan friar named Bernardino Caimi returned from Jerusalem with a radical vision: to recreate the holy places of Palestine in the Alps, so that pilgrims who could never reach the Holy Land might walk through the life, death, and resurrection of Christ. He chose a rocky spur overlooking the town of Varallo, 608 meters above sea level, and began building what would become the oldest, largest, and most influential of Italy's sacred mountains. Over the following centuries, forty-five chapels rose on the hillside, housing over 800 life-size painted statues arranged in immersive theatrical scenes—the Annunciation at Nazareth, the Nativity at Bethlehem, the Last Supper, the Crucifixion, the Entombment. A plaque at the entrance declares the complex was created so that "who could not go on a pilgrimage might see Jerusalem."
The artistic achievement at Varallo is extraordinary. The Renaissance master Gaudenzio Ferrari worked here from 1499 to 1529, creating revolutionary tableaux that blend sculpture with illusionistic fresco painting—figures that seem to move from painted background to three-dimensional presence, wearing real clothes, with actual hair and glass eyes that follow pilgrims through the chapel gates. His Crucifixion Chapel, containing twenty-six life-size figures in actual relief surrounding the dying Christ, is considered one of the masterpieces of sixteenth-century Italian art. Later artists including Tanzio da Varallo—who had studied Caravaggio in Rome—added chapels of startling emotional intensity. UNESCO recognized Varallo and the other Sacri Monti as World Heritage Sites in 2003, praising their "successful integration of architecture and fine art into a landscape of great beauty for spiritual purposes."
The pilgrimage tradition continues. The steepest cable car in Europe now carries visitors from Varallo's center to the complex above, though many still prefer the traditional walking path that medieval pilgrims knew. The Basilica at the summit celebrates Mass daily, and the Franciscan friars welcome those who come seeking the "New Jerusalem" that Bernardino Caimi imagined more than five centuries ago.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
Bernardino Caimi had served as Guardian of the Holy Places in Jerusalem—the Franciscan responsible for maintaining the sacred sites under Ottoman rule. He knew the difficulty and danger of pilgrimage to Palestine, and he knew the hunger of European Catholics to experience the places where Christ had walked. When he returned to his native Valsesia, he conceived a solution: not merely images of the holy sites, but experiential reconstructions that would allow pilgrims to move physically through the Gospel narrative.
Construction began in 1491 on what Caimi called the Sacro Monte di Nuova Gerusalemme—the Sacred Mountain of New Jerusalem. The first simple buildings aimed to recreate the main landmarks: the house in Nazareth where the Annunciation occurred, the stable in Bethlehem, the cenacle of the Last Supper, Pilate's judgment hall, Golgotha, the tomb where Christ was laid. Caimi died in 1499, but his successors—Father Candido Ranzo and Father Francesco da Marignano—continued the work. The complex expanded dramatically in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, eventually reaching forty-five chapels organized into monumental complexes.
The genius of Varallo lies in its experiential theology. Pilgrims do not merely view religious art; they enter into the sacred events. Each chapel functions like a stage set: visitors peer through iron grilles at life-size figures arranged in dramatic scenes, the painted walls extending the space illusionistically into distant landscapes or architectural interiors. The effect is immersive, emotional, sometimes overwhelming. The Counter-Reformation Church embraced these theatrical devotions as powerful tools for teaching and inspiring the faithful—what could not be explained in Latin sermons could be felt in the presence of painted terracotta figures.
Gaudenzio Ferrari transformed the Sacro Monte during his three decades of work there. A native of the Valsesia, he combined the sophistication of Leonardo's Milan with an earthy emotional directness suited to popular devotion. His figures wear real clothes and have actual hair; their glass eyes seem to meet the pilgrim's gaze. His fresco backgrounds blur the boundary between painted illusion and sculptural reality. The Crucifixion Chapel—Chapel XXXVIII—represents his masterwork: a crowd of soldiers, mourners, and onlookers surrounds the three crosses, some figures painted, others sculpted, all unified by dramatic lighting and compositional genius. A relic of the True Cross, donated in the sixteenth century, adds authentic connection to Calvary.
Later artists continued the program. Tanzio da Varallo, who had studied Caravaggio's dramatic chiaroscuro in Rome, decorated the chapel of Christ before Pilate with his brother Giovanni between 1616 and 1617. The emotional intensity of his figures—the mockery, the violence, the suffering of the innocent—reflects Counter-Reformation spirituality at its most visceral. Other major artists including Morazzone, the Fiammenghini, Dionigi Bussola, and Benedetto Alfieri contributed to subsequent chapels.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Varallo Sesia
Sacro Monte di Varallo
Sacred Mount of Varallo
The oldest and largest of Italy's Sacri Monti comprises forty-five chapels housing over 800 life-size polychrome statues arranged in immersive scenes from the life, Passion, death, and resurrection of Christ. The chapels are organized into monumental complexes: Nazareth (the Annunciation and Holy Family), Bethlehem (the Nativity), the public ministry, Pilate's House (the trial), Calvary (the Crucifixion), the Sepulchre (burial and resurrection), and Parella's House. Major works by Gaudenzio Ferrari, Tanzio da Varallo, and other Renaissance and Baroque masters make this both a spiritual pilgrimage and an artistic journey. The complex is accessed by cable car or a walking path from the town center (approximately 30 minutes uphill). Guided tours are available in multiple languages.
Cappella della Crocifissione
Chapel of the Crucifixion
Chapel XXXVIII, Gaudenzio Ferrari's masterpiece, is considered one of the great achievements of Renaissance art. Twenty-six life-size figures in actual relief surround the three crosses—soldiers, mourners, the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene—while frescoed backgrounds extend the scene into a vast landscape. The figures wear real clothes and have glass eyes; some are painted, others sculpted, the boundary deliberately blurred. A relic of the True Cross, donated in the sixteenth century, is preserved in the chapel and has drawn pilgrims for five centuries. The revolutionary integration of painting and sculpture influenced all subsequent Sacri Monti and much of Counter-Reformation devotional art.
Basilica dell'Assunta
Basilica of the Assumption
The pilgrimage church at the summit of the Sacro Monte serves as the spiritual culmination of the devotional journey. Dedicated to the Assumption of the Madonna, the basilica offers daily Mass and confession. The interior contains notable artworks and provides a place of quiet prayer after the emotional intensity of the chapel circuit. Mass is celebrated on weekdays at 8:00 AM and 5:00 PM; on weekends at 9:30 AM, 11:30 AM, and 5:00 PM. Confessions are available throughout the day.
Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie
Church of Our Lady of Grace
Built by Bernardino Caimi between 1486 and 1493—before the Sacro Monte itself—this Gothic church attached to the Franciscan convent houses one of the treasures of Piedmontese Renaissance art: the Parete Gaudenziana, the "Wall of Gaudenzio." Painted entirely by Gaudenzio Ferrari in 1513, the fresco wall depicts twenty-one episodes from the life and Passion of Christ, from the Annunciation to the Resurrection. Almost life-size figures incorporate three-dimensional elements in stucco and metal, creating an unprecedented fusion of painting and sculpture. The Crucifixion occupies the central panels. Ferrari signed and dated the work: "Gaudenzius Ferrarius Vallis Siccidae pinxit." Unique in sixteenth-century Italian art, the Wall of Gaudenzio is considered one of the absolute pinnacles of Renaissance painting in northern Italy.
Collegiata di San Gaudenzio
Collegiate Church of Saint Gaudentius
Set on a rocky outcrop, recognized by its grand staircase and loggia with Ionic capitals, the collegiate church serves as the principal parish of Varallo. The apse contains Gaudenzio Ferrari's polyptych of the Marriage of Saint Catherine, another major work by the master artist. The church provides an opportunity to venerate Saint Gaudentius, the evangelizer of Novara and patron of the diocese.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of the Assumption — August 15
The patronal feast of the Basilica dell'Assunta at the summit of the Sacro Monte. Solemn Mass and processions draw pilgrims from across the region. The feast provides an occasion to complete the devotional circuit of the chapels in community.
Holy Week
The Sacro Monte comes particularly alive during Holy Week, when the chapels depicting the Passion take on special resonance. Pilgrims walk the Via Crucis through the complex, meditating on the suffering of Christ in the presence of life-size figures that make the Gospel narrative viscerally present.
Good Friday
The most solemn day at the Sacro Monte features extended devotions at the Crucifixion Chapel and the Holy Sepulchre. The veneration of the True Cross relic draws pilgrims seeking connection to Calvary itself.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Albergo Italia ⭐⭐⭐ — Established hotel at Corso Roma 6 in Varallo's center, just 200 meters from the town core. Welcoming service, comfortable rooms, and convenient access to the cable car for the Sacro Monte. Reserve this hotel
Hotel Cristina ⭐⭐⭐ — Traditional accommodation close to Varallo's historic streets, with easy access to cafes, shops, and Sacro Monte connections. Reserve this hotel
Delzanno ⭐⭐⭐ — Property offering free bikes, free private parking, terrace, and restaurant. Good base for exploring the Valsesia. Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Milan Malpensa Airport is approximately 80 kilometers south. From the airport, connect to regional trains via Gallarate or take a bus to Milan, then continue to Varallo.
By Train and Bus: Trains from Milan reach Novara or Vercelli (many departures daily). From Novara, buses operated by ATAP connect to Varallo (total journey approximately 3 hours). Direct buses operated by Baranzelli run from Milan Lampugnano bus station to Varallo station six times weekly (approximately 2 hours 17 minutes).
By Car: From Milan, take the A26 motorway north toward Gravellona Toce, then exit for Varallo (approximately 1.5 hours). From Novara, follow SS229 north through the Valsesia (approximately 1 hour). Parking is available in Varallo's center near the cable car station.
Local Transport: The steepest cable car in Europe, inaugurated in 1935 and renovated in 2002, departs from Varallo's center and reaches the Sacro Monte in just 107 seconds. The journey covers 200 meters with 137 meters of elevation gain at slopes reaching 100%. Maximum capacity is 15 people; wheelchair accessible.
On Foot: A traditional walking path ascends from Varallo to the Sacro Monte in approximately 30 minutes, following the route medieval pilgrims walked.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Langé, Santino. Sacri Monti: Guida ai Sacri Monti del Piemonte e della Lombardia — Comprehensive guide to all nine sacred mountains.
Stefani, Alessandra. Gaudenzio Ferrari: The Varallo Masterpieces — Analysis of the great Renaissance artist's work at the Sacro Monte and Santa Maria delle Grazie.
Online Resources:
Sacro Monte di Varallo Official Website — Visiting hours, guided tours, and detailed information on each chapel.
Sacri Monti Official Portal — Comprehensive information on all nine UNESCO-inscribed sacred mountains.
UNESCO World Heritage: Sacri Monti — Official UNESCO listing explaining the Outstanding Universal Value.
🔗 Useful Links
Visit Valsesia Vercelli — Regional tourism portal for the Valsesia valley.
Funivia Sacro Monte — Cable car information and schedules.
ATAP Vercelli — Regional bus services connecting Novara and Vercelli to Varallo.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Sacro Monte di Orta (35 km) — Located on the eastern shore of Lake Orta, this Sacro Monte is dedicated entirely to Saint Francis of Assisi. Twenty-one chapels with 370 life-size statues depict episodes from the saint's life. The island of San Giulio, visible from the sacred mountain, adds to the spiritual atmosphere. UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sacro Monte di Crea (70 km) — Set on one of the highest hills of the Monferrato wine region, this Sacro Monte comprises twenty-three chapels and five hermitages illustrating the mysteries of the Rosary. The Sanctuary of Crea contains a fourteenth-century statue of the Madonna. UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Domodossola (50 km) — The Sacro Monte Calvario features fifteen chapels depicting the Stations of the Cross, with sculptures by artists trained in Bernini's workshop. Mother House of the Rosminian Order. UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Novara (55 km) — The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta dates to the fourth century; the Crypt of San Gaudenzio contains relics of Novara's patron saint. The monumental Basilica of San Gaudenzio with its iconic dome dominates the city skyline.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Pilgrims who could not go to Jerusalem might see Jerusalem here." — Inscription at the entrance to Sacro Monte di Varallo, founded 1491
