High on a hill overlooking the eastern Slovenian lowlands, the white church of Šmarje pri Jelšah has drawn pilgrims since the fifteenth century. The path climbs through vineyards and orchards, past wayside shrines marking the traditional approach, until the summit reveals a panorama stretching from the rolling hills of Štajerska to the distant peaks of the Karavanke Alps. Here, in one of Slovenia's oldest Marian sanctuaries, pilgrims have sought the intercession of Our Lady for over five hundred years—through wars, occupations, and ideological oppression, the faithful have climbed this hill to pray.
The church itself appears modest from outside—a simple Gothic structure with a pointed spire rising above the treetops. But the interior contains treasures: a late Gothic winged altar from the workshop of the Ljubljana masters, frescoes from multiple centuries, and above all, the venerated image of the Virgin that gives this mountain its purpose. On major feast days, the narrow path fills with processions of the faithful, their hymns rising toward the Madonna who watches over the land of Štajerska.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
Documentary evidence of a church on Šmarje hill dates to 1466, though local tradition claims an earlier foundation. The name Šmarje derives from Sveta Marija—Saint Mary—indicating that Marian devotion defined the site from its origins. The hill itself, rising 624 meters above the Obsotelje valley, offered both spiritual elevation and practical defense during the turbulent centuries of Ottoman raids and peasant uprisings.
The present church was constructed in the late Gothic style during the late fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, incorporating elements of earlier structures. The building features a single nave with ribbed vaulting, a polygonal choir, and a bell tower that has served as a landmark for travelers crossing the eastern Slovenian hills.
The winged altar—the church's greatest artistic treasure—was created around 1520, possibly in the workshop of Master Andrej of Ljubljana. When opened, the altar reveals painted panels depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin: the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Nativity, and the Adoration of the Magi. The carved central section shows Mary enthroned with the Christ Child, surrounded by saints. The altar survived the Counter-Reformation's liturgical reforms, the Napoleonic period's confiscations, and the Communist era's neglect—a testament to the community's determination to preserve their heritage.
Pilgrimage traditions developed around the major Marian feasts. The Assumption (August 15) and the Nativity of Mary (September 8) drew crowds from villages throughout the region. Processions would begin before dawn, with pilgrims walking in groups organized by parish, singing traditional hymns and praying the rosary. At the summit, multiple Masses were celebrated to accommodate the crowds.
During the Communist period (1945-1990), the Yugoslav authorities discouraged religious gatherings but could not suppress the annual pilgrimages entirely. Pilgrims continued to climb the hill, sometimes facing surveillance and professional consequences for their public devotion. The 1991 independence of Slovenia restored full religious freedom, and the pilgrimages resumed their traditional character.
The Diocese of Celje, established in 2006 by dividing the sprawling Diocese of Maribor, inherited Šmarje pri Jelšah as one of its significant pilgrimage sites. The church underwent restoration in the early 2000s, with particular attention to the Gothic frescoes and the stabilization of the winged altar.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Šmarje pri Jelšah
Cerkev Marijinega Vnebovzetja
Church of the Assumption of Mary
The Gothic pilgrimage church crowns Šmarje hill, its pointed spire visible for miles across the gentle landscape of eastern Slovenia. The approach through vineyards and meadows is itself part of the pilgrimage experience—traditional stations of the cross mark the path, inviting pilgrims to meditate on Christ's Passion as they climb.
The interior preserves a remarkable ensemble of late Gothic and early Renaissance art. The winged altar, when fully opened for feast days, displays a comprehensive program of Marian imagery that ranks among the finest examples of early sixteenth-century Slovenian religious art. Frescoes from multiple periods cover portions of the walls and vaulting, revealing layers of devotional history.
The main altar houses the venerated image of Our Lady of Šmarje, before which pilgrims pray for intercession. Votive candles fill the sanctuary during major pilgrimages. The church maintains active parish life while welcoming pilgrims throughout the year.
Via Crucis
Way of the Cross
The traditional pilgrimage path ascending Šmarje hill is marked by stations of the cross—stone or wooden shrines where pilgrims pause to contemplate Christ's journey to Calvary. The path takes approximately 30-45 minutes to climb, depending on pace and devotion. Many pilgrims complete the Via Crucis barefoot or on their knees during the major feast days, continuing a penitential tradition centuries old.
Kapela Lurške Matere Božje
Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes
A small grotto chapel near the church commemorates the Marian apparitions at Lourdes. Constructed in the late nineteenth century during the height of Lourdes devotion in the Catholic world, the chapel provides an additional prayer space for pilgrims.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of the Assumption — August 15
The principal pilgrimage draws thousands from across the diocese and beyond. Multiple Masses are celebrated from early morning through midday, with the main celebration presided over by the Bishop of Celje or a senior diocesan official. The traditional procession follows the Via Crucis, with pilgrims carrying banners and images of the Virgin. Festival atmosphere prevails in the meadows surrounding the church, where vendors offer traditional food and crafts.
Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary — September 8
The secondary Marian feast continues the pilgrimage season. The celebration includes blessing of the harvest, reflecting the agricultural heritage of the region. Many pilgrims combine the devotion with visits to the surrounding wine country.
Marian Month of May
Throughout May, special devotions honor the Virgin Mary. Evening rosary processions climb the hill on weekends, culminating in Mass at the summit. These smaller gatherings offer a more intimate pilgrimage experience than the August crowds.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hotel & Restaurant Šmarjeta ⭐⭐⭐ — Three-star hotel in the town of Šmarje pri Jelšah, at the foot of the pilgrimage hill. Restaurant serves regional Štajerska cuisine. Reserve this hotel
Wellness Hotel & Spa & Thermae Rogaška ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Five-star spa resort in nearby Rogaška Slatina (15 km), famous for healing mineral waters. Extensive wellness facilities. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel & Restaurant & Wellness Atlantida ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Four-star boutique hotel in Rogaška Slatina with spa facilities and farm-to-table restaurant. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Tourist Farm Kovač (farmstay) — Traditional Slovenian farmstay in the hills near Šmarje, offering home-cooked meals and rural hospitality. Reserve this property
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU) is approximately 110 km west. Zagreb Airport (ZAG) in Croatia is approximately 90 km southeast. Rental cars are the most practical connection from either airport.
By Train: The nearest station is Celje (25 km), served by trains from Ljubljana (approximately 1 hour) and Maribor (approximately 45 minutes). From Celje, buses or taxis connect to Šmarje pri Jelšah.
By Bus: Regular bus services connect Ljubljana and Maribor to Šmarje pri Jelšah via Celje. Direct services operate less frequently; connections in Celje are often required.
By Car: From Ljubljana, take the A1 motorway east toward Maribor, exit at Celje, and follow signs toward Rogaška Slatina; Šmarje pri Jelšah is approximately 20 km southeast of Celje (total distance approximately 100 km, 1 hour 15 minutes). Parking is available at the foot of the pilgrimage hill.
On Foot: The pilgrimage path from the town center to the hilltop church is approximately 2 km (30-45 minutes walking). The ascent is part of the traditional pilgrimage experience.
📚 Further Reading
Online Resources:
Diocese of Celje — Diocesan information and resources.
Slovenian Tourist Board – Šmarje pri Jelšah — Visitor information for the region.
🔗 Useful Links
Municipality of Šmarje pri Jelšah — Local government information.
Rogaška Slatina Spa — Information on the famous mineral springs nearby.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Brezje (110 km) — Slovenia's national Marian shrine, home to the Basilica of Mary Help of Christians and the nation's most visited pilgrimage site.
Ptujska Gora (50 km) — Gothic pilgrimage church housing the celebrated Protective Cloak Madonna, a masterpiece of medieval Slovenian art depicting Mary sheltering the faithful beneath her mantle.
Stična Abbey (55 km) — The oldest Cistercian monastery in Slovenia, founded in 1136, with an active monastic community and museum.
Celje (25 km) — The city's Abbey of St. Daniel and the remains of the medieval castle offer insights into Slovenian religious and political history.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"I am the vine, you are the branches. Whoever remains in me and I in him will bear much fruit." — John 15:5 (NABRE)
