On the night of October 3, 1226, Francis of Assisi asked his brothers to lay him on the bare earthen floor of a small infirmary hut beside the Porziuncola—the tiny ninth-century chapel he had restored with his own hands twenty years earlier. He had composed the final verse of his Canticle of the Creatures that day, welcoming sora morte, Sister Death, as he had welcomed all created things. Naked on the ground, his arms stretched out in the form of a cross, he sang Psalm 142 and died. The place where he breathed his last—transformed now into the Chapel of the Transit—stands within the vast Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli, which rose in the sixteenth century to shelter and protect this holiest of Franciscan sites.
The Porziuncola itself measures barely five and a half by three meters—a miniature church that contained the entirety of Francis's revolutionary vision. Here, around 1209, the Benedictines gave him the chapel and its "little portion" of land (portiuncula) on condition that it become the mother house of his new order. Here the first friars gathered for their annual chapters at Pentecost. Here, on Palm Sunday 1212, Francis cut Clare's hair and gave her the simple habit, founding what would become the Order of Poor Clares. And here, in 1216, Christ and the Virgin appeared to Francis in prayer and granted an indulgence that pilgrims still seek on August 2 each year—the Pardon of Assisi, predecessor of all jubilee indulgences.
Today the Porziuncola sits like a jewel in the nave of the seventh-largest church in Christendom. Pilgrims enter the enormous basilica and find, at its heart, the same small chapel Francis knew—stones he laid, space he sanctified, threshold where the Franciscan movement was born. The contrast between the tiny medieval chapel and the monumental Renaissance basilica surrounding it captures something essential about Francis himself: a man who embraced Lady Poverty in an age of ecclesiastical magnificence, whose "little portion" of land became the spiritual center of a worldwide movement.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The chapel now called the Porziuncola first appears in documents from 1045, already belonging to the Benedictines of Monte Subasio. Its dedication to Saint Mary of the Angels may reflect ancient traditions of angelic apparitions at the site. When Francis discovered it around 1207-1208, it was one of several ruined churches in the Assisi countryside that seemed to call out for restoration. He had already rebuilt San Damiano—where he heard Christ's voice commanding him to "rebuild my Church"—and San Pietro della Spina. The Porziuncola became the third.
The abbot of Monte Subasio gave Francis the chapel and its surrounding land around 1209-1211, asking only that it serve as the mother house of his new religious community. Francis accepted, though he insisted on paying a symbolic rent of a basket of fish annually—maintaining his commitment to owning nothing, not even the ground where he prayed. The name Portiuncula, "little portion," passed from the land to the chapel itself, and became synonymous with the Franciscan movement's birthplace.
The events that unfolded at the Porziuncola shaped the Franciscan Order's identity. The annual general chapters brought friars from across Europe to gather around the tiny chapel, sometimes numbering in the thousands. Clare of Assisi came here on Palm Sunday night, 1212, fleeing her family's plans for her marriage; Francis cut her hair before the altar and clothed her in the rough tunic of a penitent, founding the Second Order of Franciscans. The Third Order, for laypeople living Franciscan spirituality in the world, also traces its origins to this place.
The Porziuncola Indulgence arose from a vision Francis received while praying in the chapel around 1216. Christ appeared with the Virgin Mary and asked what Francis desired for the salvation of souls. Francis requested that all who entered the Porziuncola, truly contrite and having confessed, receive complete remission of their sins. Christ granted the request, and Pope Honorius III confirmed it at Perugia. Originally available only at the Porziuncola itself on August 2, the indulgence was extended by Pope Sixtus IV in 1481 to all Franciscan churches, and today can be obtained at any parish church on that date. This "Pardon of Assisi" influenced the development of the Roman Jubilee and shaped Catholic understanding of indulgences.
Francis returned to the Porziuncola to die, asking to be carried from the bishop's palace in Assisi where he had been receiving care. He wanted to end his life at the place where it had spiritually begun. The small room where he died—originally an infirmary for sick friars—is now the Chapel of the Transit, preserving relics of his robe and the rope belt he wore.
The construction of the enormous basilica to enclose these sacred sites began on March 25, 1569, under Pope Pius V. The Perugian architect Galeazzo Alessi designed a structure 126 meters long, capable of accommodating the vast pilgrim crowds that the Porziuncola attracted. Construction proceeded slowly, funded entirely by donations, and was completed in 1679 with the dome. A devastating earthquake in 1832 collapsed the central nave, but the dome survived and reconstruction under Luigi Poletti reopened the church in 1840. The current façade dates to 1924-1930; its golden statue of Our Lady of the Angels has crowned the entrance since 1930.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Santa Maria degli Angeli
Porziuncola
The Little Portion
The small ninth-century chapel that Francis restored around 1207-1208 stands at the center of the basilica's nave, preserved exactly as he knew it. Measuring barely 5.5 by 3.2 meters, this tiny church was the birthplace of the Franciscan Order, the site of Clare's entry into religious life, and the location of Francis's death. Above the entrance, Johann Friedrich Overbeck's 1829-1830 fresco depicts Francis receiving the Pardon of Assisi from Christ and the Virgin Mary. The chapel's interior, though simple, represents the most sacred space in Franciscan spirituality—the "little portion" that transformed the Church. Mass is celebrated here regularly; pilgrims may enter to pray in silence.
Cappella del Transito
Chapel of the Transit
Located in the right part of the apse, this small room was originally the infirmary where Francis died on the night of October 3-4, 1226. The name "Chapel of the Transit" reflects Franciscan understanding: Francis did not see death as an end but as a transitus, a passage to eternal life. After composing the final verse of his Canticle of the Creatures—welcoming Sister Death—he asked to be laid naked on the bare earthen floor with his arms extended in the form of a cross. The chapel contains relics donated by Pope Pius IX: part of Francis's robe and the rope belt he wore. A statue by Andrea della Robbia depicts the saint at the moment of death.
Roseto e Cappella delle Rose
Rose Garden and Chapel of the Roses
According to tradition dating to the late thirteenth century, Francis once threw himself naked into a bramble bush to overcome powerful temptation. When his body touched the thorns, they miraculously transformed into roses without thorns. The Rosa canina assisiensis that grows in the garden today remains thornless—a unique variety found only here. The adjacent Chapel of the Roses, built in phases from the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries, occupies the cell where Francis rested after the miracle. Frescoes by Tiberio d'Assisi (1506-1516) depict the early Franciscan community, the miracle of the roses, and the saints of the order: Anthony of Padua, Louis of Toulouse, Bonaventure, Clare, and Elizabeth of Hungary.
Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli
Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels
The seventh-largest Christian church in the world, built 1569-1679 to enclose and protect the Porziuncola and associated sacred sites. The architect Galeazzo Alessi designed the massive structure in Mannerist-Baroque style; the dome, completed in 1667, rises 75 meters above the floor. The 1832 earthquake collapsed the central nave, but reconstruction under Luigi Poletti preserved the essential character. The façade, restored to its original form in 1924-1930, is crowned by a golden statue of Our Lady of the Angels. The vast nave allows enormous crowds to gather while the tiny Porziuncola at its center maintains its intimate scale. Daily Mass is celebrated at various altars throughout the basilica.
Museo della Porziuncola
Porziuncola Museum
Founded in 1920, the museum preserves artwork and relics associated with the Porziuncola and early Franciscan history. Six exhibition halls trace the site's significance from pre-Franciscan times through the basilica's construction and restoration. Notable works include a crucifix by Giunta Pisano, "San Francesco and Angels" by the Master of San Francesco, a portrait of Francis attributed to Cimabue, and a glazed terracotta dossal by Andrea della Robbia. Medieval manuscripts, paintings, and relics round out the collection.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of the Pardon / Our Lady of the Angels — August 2
The principal feast of the Porziuncola commemorates the indulgence Francis received from Christ in 1216. Pilgrims come from across Italy and beyond to receive the Pardon of Assisi—available August 1-2 to all who visit a parish church, having confessed, received communion, and prayed for the Pope's intentions. The celebration at Santa Maria degli Angeli itself draws enormous crowds for solemn Masses and processions. The feast has been observed for over seven centuries.
Transitus of Saint Francis — October 3-4
The annual commemoration of Francis's death draws Franciscans and pilgrims to the place where he breathed his last. On the evening of October 3, the Lucernary ritual unfolds: the basilica remains in darkness as friars read the account of Francis's final hours from the Franciscan Sources. When the narrative reaches the moment of his soul rising to God, the church is suddenly illuminated. The service continues through the night and into October 4, the Feast of Saint Francis. Franciscan communities worldwide observe the Transitus, but the Chapel of the Transit at Santa Maria degli Angeli is the focal point.
Feast of Saint Francis — October 4
The memorial of Francis's death is observed with particular solemnity at the Porziuncola. Mass is celebrated throughout the day at the tiny chapel where he founded his order and at the basilica's main altar. Pilgrims who could not attend the Transitus the previous night gather to honor the Poverello, the little poor man of Assisi.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hotel Cenacolo (Franciscan-operated) — Run by the Friars Minor, this 123-room hotel occupies a converted convent with panoramic views of Assisi and Monte Subasio. Chapel, wellness facilities, and easy walking distance to the basilica. Bus stop directly outside connects to Assisi's historic center. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel Domus Pacis (Franciscan-operated) — Owned by the Friars Minor of Umbria, this park hotel stands steps from the Porziuncola Basilica. Designed for pilgrimage groups and families, with sixteen conference rooms and spiritual programs accompanying visitors to Franciscan sites. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel Moderno ⭐⭐⭐ — Modern accommodation in Santa Maria degli Angeli with comfortable rooms and easy access to both the basilica and the train station. Reserve this hotel
Le Grazie Hotel ⭐⭐⭐ — Located 400 meters from Assisi station, offering convenient access for pilgrims arriving by train. Simple, clean rooms at moderate prices. Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Rome Fiumicino Airport and Perugia Sant'Egidio Airport are the nearest options. From Rome, train service reaches Assisi in approximately 2 hours. From Perugia, buses or taxis connect to Santa Maria degli Angeli (approximately 30 minutes).
By Train: The Assisi railway station is actually located in Santa Maria degli Angeli, a short walk from the basilica. Trains run from Rome (approximately 2 hours, change at Foligno) and Florence (approximately 2.5 hours, direct or via Terontola). The basilica is visible from the station; walk approximately 10 minutes following signs to "Basilica."
By Bus: Busitalia operates Line C connecting Assisi's Piazza Matteotti to Santa Maria degli Angeli and the train station (5-6 minutes). Buses run frequently throughout the day.
By Car: From Rome, take the E45 north toward Perugia, then follow signs for Assisi/Santa Maria degli Angeli (approximately 2.5 hours). From Florence, take the A1 to Valdichiana, then E45 south to Perugia and on to Assisi (approximately 2.5 hours). Parking is available near the basilica.
Local Transport: Santa Maria degli Angeli lies in the plain 4 kilometers below Assisi's hilltop center. Line C buses connect to Piazza Matteotti in approximately 10 minutes. Taxis are also available. Many pilgrims stay in Santa Maria degli Angeli for convenient train access while visiting both the Porziuncola and the hill town's basilicas.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Augustine Thompson, OP. Francis of Assisi: A New Biography — Rigorous historical biography separating documented facts from pious legend.
Thomas of Celano. The Life of Saint Francis — The earliest biography, written by Francis's contemporary and friend.
Franciscan Friars. Francis of Assisi: Early Documents — Complete collection of primary sources including the Porziuncola Indulgence documents.
Online Resources:
Porziuncola Official Website — Mass schedules, visiting information, and history from the Franciscan friars.
Franciscan Media — Resources on Franciscan spirituality and the life of Saint Francis.
🎥 Recommended Videos
The Porziuncola: Heart of Franciscan Spirituality — Documentary exploring the tiny chapel where the Franciscan Order was born.
🔗 Useful Links
Visit Assisi — Official tourism portal for Assisi and surroundings.
Umbria Tourism — Regional tourism information.
Trenitalia — Train schedules and booking for travel to Assisi station.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Assisi (4 km) — The hilltop town where Francis was born and Clare founded her order. The Basilica of Saint Francis houses his tomb and Giotto's famous frescoes; the Basilica of Saint Clare preserves her incorrupt body; San Damiano is where Francis heard Christ's call to rebuild the Church.
Perugia (26 km) — The capital of Umbria, where Pope Honorius III confirmed the Porziuncola Indulgence in 1216. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo and the National Gallery of Umbria reward pilgrimage.
Spoleto (47 km) — Part of the Via di Francesco pilgrimage route, with a magnificent Romanesque cathedral and the medieval Ponte delle Torri. Francis passed through Spoleto on his final journey home to die at the Porziuncola.
Cascia (60 km) — The shrine of Saint Rita, whose incorrupt body draws pilgrims seeking the intercession of the "saint of impossible cases."
Norcia (75 km) — The birthplace of Saints Benedict and Scholastica, with the basilica built over the house where the twins were born.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Praised be You, my Lord, through our Sister Bodily Death, from whom no living man can escape. Woe to those who die in mortal sin. Blessed are those whom death will find in Your most holy will, for the second death shall do them no harm." — Saint Francis of Assisi, Canticle of the Creatures, final verse, composed at the Porziuncola, October 3, 1226
