On September 6, 1258, three galleys sailed into the port of Ortona bearing an extraordinary cargo: the bones of Saint Thomas the Apostle. Leone Acciaiuoli, an Ortonese sea captain, had found them on the Greek island of Chios, where tradition held that Thomas had been reinterred after his martyrdom in India. According to the account that survives, Acciaiuoli entered a church to pray after a successful naval raid and felt himself drawn by an invisible force to a tomb. A light surrounded the bones within; he knew he had found an apostle. He carried the relics home to Ortona, and they have remained here for nearly eight centuries—one of the most complete apostolic collections outside Rome, drawing pilgrims who come to venerate the man who declared "My Lord and my God!"
Thomas earned his epithet "Doubting" from the Gospel of John. When the other disciples told him they had seen the risen Christ, he refused to believe: "Except I shall see in his hands the print of the nails, and put my finger into the print of the nails, and thrust my hand into his side, I will not believe." Eight days later, Jesus appeared and invited Thomas to touch his wounds. Thomas's response—"My Lord and my God!"—is the only direct address to Jesus as God in the four Gospels, a climactic confession of faith that transformed doubt into worship.
Tradition sends Thomas far beyond the Roman Empire after Pentecost. The Saint Thomas Christians of Kerala trace their faith to his arrival at Muziris in 52 AD, where he founded seven Christian communities before his martyrdom at Mylapore near Madras in 72 AD. From India to Chios to Ortona, the relics traveled through centuries; today they rest in the crypt of a basilica that looks out over the Adriatic, the end point of the Cammino di San Tommaso—a 320-kilometer pilgrimage route from Rome that invites modern pilgrims to walk backward through the relics' journey, arriving where the doubter's bones have taught faith to countless generations.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The apostle Thomas appears four times in the Gospel of John, each scene revealing character. When Jesus proposed returning to Judea despite threats on his life, Thomas declared to the other disciples: "Let us also go, that we may die with him" (John 11:16)—courage masking fear. At the Last Supper, when Jesus spoke of going to prepare a place, Thomas interrupted: "Lord, we do not know where you are going. How can we know the way?" (John 14:5). Jesus's reply—"I am the way, the truth, and the life"—became one of Christianity's most quoted verses, but it was Thomas's honest confusion that provoked it.
The post-resurrection scene, however, made Thomas famous. His demand for physical proof of the resurrection—to see and touch the wounds—has been interpreted through centuries as both weakness and strength. Augustine saw in Thomas's doubt a gift to future believers: "He doubted that we might not doubt." The Eastern churches call him "Thomas the Believer" rather than "Doubting Thomas," emphasizing the faith that emerged from his testing. His declaration "My Lord and my God" represents the fullest Christological statement in the Gospels.
Ancient tradition, preserved in the third-century Acts of Thomas, describes his mission to India. The text relates that when the apostles divided the world for evangelization, India fell to Thomas by lot; he resisted until a vision of Christ commanded him to go. The Saint Thomas Christians of Kerala, who number over six million today, trace their origins to seven churches he founded in the first century. His martyrdom at Mylapore—traditionally on July 3, 72 AD—established a shrine that Marco Polo visited in the thirteenth century.
The relics' journey from India to Edessa (modern Turkey), then to Chios, reflects centuries of translation and political upheaval. By the thirteenth century, the bones rested on Chios, a Genoese-controlled island. The circumstances of Leone Acciaiuoli's discovery in 1258 mix piety with piracy—a raid that ended in prayer, a tomb that revealed its treasure to a foreign captain. The Church has verified that the skeleton at Ortona is substantially complete, though some fragments remain elsewhere (notably, the index finger of "Doubting Thomas" is kept in the Basilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme in Rome).
Ortona's cathedral, built on the site of an ancient Roman temple, was destroyed by Normans in 1060 and rebuilt in 1127. It received the relics of Thomas in 1258 and was elevated to a Minor Basilica by Pope Pius IX in 1859. The building suffered Ottoman attack in 1566, French damage in 1799, and near-total destruction during the Battle of Ortona in December 1943—one of the bloodiest engagements of the Italian campaign. During the war, the heavy silver bust containing fragments of Thomas's skull was hidden under timber in a dark corner; the relics themselves were concealed in the priest's home. The basilica was rebuilt and reopened in 1949.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Ortona
Basilica di San Tommaso Apostolo
Basilica of Saint Thomas the Apostle
The cathedral and basilica of Ortona houses the relics of Saint Thomas in a crypt beneath the main altar. A gilded copper shrine contains the bones; a silver bust crafted by the Pani Foundry of Naples in 1800 holds fragments of the saint's skull. Bronze doors created by Ortonese sculptor Stefano Durante in 1958 protect the reliquary. The relics and bust are exhibited to the faithful on three occasions each year: July 3 (the feast of Saint Thomas), September 6 (the anniversary of the relics' arrival in 1258), and the first Sunday of May (the Festa del Perdono). The baroque interior, reconstructed after World War II, focuses attention on the crypt where pilgrims kneel before the apostle's bones. Daily Mass is celebrated; the basilica welcomes pilgrims seeking to venerate the man who declared "My Lord and my God!"
Cripta di San Tommaso
Crypt of Saint Thomas
The heart of the pilgrimage lies in the crypt beneath the basilica's main altar. Here the bones of Saint Thomas rest in a beautiful display case, the gilded copper shrine that has protected them since their arrival in 1258. The intimate space allows pilgrims to pray within feet of apostolic relics—a direct connection to the first generation of Christians who knew Christ in the flesh. The crypt's quiet atmosphere contrasts with the baroque grandeur above, creating a space for contemplation and personal encounter with the doubter who became a believer.
Castello Aragonese
Aragonese Castle
Built in the fifteenth century by the Aragonese dynasty, this imposing fortress perches on a hill overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The castle's strategic position defended Ortona from naval threats for centuries. A blend of medieval and Renaissance architectural styles characterizes the structure, with imposing walls, towers, and fortified gates. Though primarily a historical rather than religious site, the castle's commanding views encompass both the basilica below and the sea from which the relics arrived. Open to visitors, it provides context for understanding Ortona's position as a medieval port and pilgrimage destination.
Canadian War Cemetery
Cimitero di Guerra Canadese
South of the town center, this solemn memorial honors the 1,375 Commonwealth soldiers—mostly Canadian—who died in the Battle of Ortona in December 1943. The brutal house-to-house fighting earned Ortona the name "Little Stalingrad"; the basilica itself was largely destroyed. The Church of San Donato stands at the cemetery entrance. Many pilgrims visit to pray for the souls of those who died liberating Italy, recognizing that the relics they venerate survived the war through the courage of ordinary people who hid them from destruction.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of Saint Thomas the Apostle — July 3
The principal feast day brings pilgrims to Ortona for solemn liturgies honoring the apostle. The silver bust containing fragments of Thomas's skull is processed through the streets, and the relics in the crypt are exposed for veneration. The feast was moved from December 21 to July 3 in the 1969 calendar reform so it would not interfere with Advent; traditionalist communities continue to observe the December date.
Anniversary of the Relics' Arrival — September 6
The anniversary of Leone Acciaiuoli's arrival in 1258 with the relics from Chios is commemorated with special Masses and the exposition of the relics. The celebration recalls the remarkable journey that brought an apostle's bones to this Adriatic port.
Festa del Perdono — First Sunday of May
Feast of Forgiveness
Dating to 1479, when Pope Sixtus IV granted plenary indulgence to believers visiting the Church of Saint Thomas, this festival combines religious celebration with civic tradition. Two processions carry the statue of Saint Thomas through the streets—at the beginning and end of the festivities. The relics are exposed for veneration, and pilgrims may obtain the indulgence granted over five centuries ago.
Feast of Saint Thomas — December 21 (Traditional Calendar)
Some communities, particularly those following the traditional Roman calendar, continue to observe the original December feast of Saint Thomas. The date fell near the winter solstice, and folk traditions associated "St. Thomas's Day" with the longest night of the year.
🛏️ Where to Stay
La Dimora Di Tommaso ⭐⭐⭐ — Located within 45 meters of the basilica, this property offers the closest accommodation to the relics. Water sports including windsurfing and diving can be arranged. Reserve this hotel
Torre della Loggia ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (historic residence) — Steps from both the Castello Aragonese and the Basilica, this restored historic building offers elegant rooms in Ortona's historic center. Reserve this property
B&B via Roma Suite ⭐⭐⭐ — Ten-minute walk from the Basilica and Castello Aragonese, offering comfortable rooms and warm hospitality. Near the Ortona Lighthouse. Reserve this property
Hotel Ideale Ortona ⭐⭐⭐ — Budget-friendly option with easy access to Ortona's pilgrimage sites and the Adriatic coast. Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Pescara Abruzzo Airport is approximately 30 kilometers north (36 minutes by car). From the airport, take the Line 38 shuttle to Pescara Porta Nuova station, then a regional train to Ortona (total journey approximately 1 hour).
By Train: Regional trains connect Ortona to Pescara (approximately 20 minutes) and Lanciano (approximately 24 minutes). From Rome, take a train to Pescara via the Adriatic line, then connect to Ortona (total journey approximately 3-4 hours).
By Car: From Rome, take the A24/A25 motorways toward Pescara, then follow the SS16 coastal road south to Ortona (approximately 3 hours). From the north, take the A14 Adriatic motorway to the Pescara exit, then SS16 south.
On Foot: The Cammino di San Tommaso, a 320-kilometer pilgrimage route, connects Rome's Basilica of St. Peter to Ortona. The route follows in reverse the journey of the relics, crossing from Lazio into Abruzzo through mountain and valley landscapes. Sixteen stages, each 15-25 kilometers, make up the traditional itinerary.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Dauphinais, Michael and Matthew Levering. Knowing the Love of Christ: An Introduction to the Theology of St. Thomas Aquinas — While focused on Thomas Aquinas, this work illuminates the apostle's spiritual legacy.
Medlycott, A.E. India and the Apostle Thomas — Historical analysis of the tradition of Thomas's mission to India.
Online Resources:
Basilica of San Tommaso Apostolo — Official basilica website with Mass times and pilgrimage information.
Cammino di San Tommaso — Route details, stage descriptions, and practical information for walking the pilgrimage.
Saint Thomas Christians of Kerala — Information on the ancient Christian community Thomas founded in India.
🎥 Recommended Videos
The Relics of Saint Thomas in Ortona — Documentary exploring the history and significance of the apostle's bones.
🔗 Useful Links
Visit Abruzzo — Regional tourism portal for the Abruzzo region.
Cammino di San Tommaso — Official pilgrimage route website with accommodation and services.
Trenitalia — Train schedules for travel to Ortona.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Cammino di San Tommaso (Way of Saint Thomas) — A 320-kilometer pilgrimage route connecting Rome to Ortona, following in reverse the journey of the apostle's relics. The route begins at St. Peter's Basilica in Rome and crosses Lazio and Abruzzo through sixteen stages, each between 15 and 25 kilometers. Highlights include Subiaco (the monastery of Saint Benedict), the mountain passes of the Apennines, and the gradual descent to the Adriatic coast. The walk takes approximately sixteen days and ends at the basilica where Thomas's bones have rested since 1258.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Lanciano (20 km) — The Sanctuary of the Eucharistic Miracle houses relics from the eighth century, when a doubting priest witnessed bread and wine transform into visible flesh and blood during Mass. Scientific studies have confirmed the flesh as human cardiac tissue.
San Giovanni Rotondo (160 km) — The sanctuary of Saint Padre Pio draws seven million pilgrims annually to venerate the stigmatized priest who heard confessions for hours each day and founded a hospital dedicated to relieving suffering.
Manoppello (50 km) — The Basilica of the Holy Face houses the Veil of Manoppello, believed by many to be the Veil of Veronica bearing a miraculous image of Christ's face.
Chieti (25 km) — The cathedral of San Giustino houses relics of the city's patron saint; the Holy Week processions of Chieti rank among the most dramatic in Italy.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Jesus said to him, 'Have you believed because you have seen me? Blessed are those who have not seen and yet have believed.'" — John 20:29
