On the last Sunday of July, in darkness before dawn, thousands of pilgrims begin climbing Ireland's holy mountain. They ascend through mist and bog, past the shrine at the shoulder, up the final brutal scree slope to the summit oratory where Mass will be celebrated as the sun rises over Clew Bay. This is Reek Sunday, the climax of Ireland's ancient pilgrimage to Croagh Patrick—the mountain where, according to tradition, St. Patrick spent forty days and forty nights in the year 441, fasting and praying for the Irish people.
The mountain rises 764 meters above Clew Bay in County Mayo, its quartzite cone dominating the coastline. Known locally as "the Reek," it has been a place of pilgrimage since long before Patrick—archaeological evidence suggests pre-Christian ritual use. But Patrick claimed it for Christ, and for over 1,500 years, the Irish have climbed its slopes seeking penance, healing, and encounter with God.
The traditional pilgrimage is arduous. Some pilgrims climb barefoot, feeling every stone and scree fragment as an offering of suffering. The path is steep, the weather Atlantic and unpredictable, and the final approach to the summit demands hands and feet on loose rock. Yet the numbers grow: over 100,000 make the climb annually, and Reek Sunday alone can see 25,000 pilgrims on the mountain. In an age of comfort, Croagh Patrick reminds us that some graces can only be received through effort and sacrifice.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The tradition holds that Patrick climbed Croagh Patrick in 441 AD, during his mission to convert Ireland. Following the example of Moses on Sinai and Jesus in the desert, he fasted for forty days on the summit, wrestling with demons, praying for the Irish, and—according to legend—banishing all snakes from Ireland by ringing his bell.
The mountain was almost certainly sacred before Patrick. Bronze Age hut sites on the summit suggest pre-Christian use; the mountain's commanding position and dramatic shape would have made it significant in Celtic religion. Patrick's appropriation of the site followed the Church's practice of christianizing pagan holy places.
Medieval pilgrimage to Croagh Patrick was well-established by the twelfth century. The Augustinian abbey at Murrisk, at the mountain's base, provided hospitality for pilgrims. The traditional pilgrimage "stations"—prayers recited at specific points on the mountain—developed during this period.
The Reformation and subsequent English rule suppressed Catholic practice, but the pilgrimage continued. Even during the Penal Laws, when Mass was forbidden, the Irish climbed Croagh Patrick and worshipped in secret. The pilgrimage became a symbol of Irish Catholic identity and resistance.
The nineteenth century saw revival and regularization. The chapel on the summit was built in 1905 (replacing earlier structures), and the modern pattern of Reek Sunday pilgrimage took shape. Pope John Paul II visited in 1980, praying on the mountain during his historic visit to Ireland.
Today, Croagh Patrick remains Ireland's most climbed peak and one of its most important pilgrimage sites. The annual pilgrimage on the last Sunday of July draws pilgrims from across Ireland and beyond, continuing a tradition that stretches back to Patrick himself.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites at Croagh Patrick
The Summit Oratory (Teampall Phádraig)
The small chapel on Croagh Patrick's summit, built in 1905, marks the site where Patrick prayed and fasted. Mass is celebrated here on Reek Sunday and other special occasions. The views from the summit—over Clew Bay with its 365 islands, to the mountains of Connemara and beyond—are themselves a form of prayer.
The summit also contains the remains of earlier structures, possibly dating to the early medieval period. This small, wind-swept place has witnessed fifteen centuries of faith.
Leacht Benáin (St. Benignus's Cairn)
This stone cairn at the shoulder of the mountain (the Casán Phádraig or Patrick's Path) marks a traditional station where pilgrims pray. According to tradition, St. Benignus, Patrick's disciple and successor, is associated with this site. Pilgrims walk around the cairn while reciting prayers.
Murrisk Abbey Ruins
The fifteenth-century Augustinian abbey at the foot of the mountain served medieval pilgrims. The atmospheric ruins, overlooking Clew Bay, provide a contemplative space before or after the climb. The abbey was founded in 1457 and suppressed in the sixteenth century.
National Famine Memorial
Near the base of the pilgrimage path, the haunting bronze "coffin ship" sculpture by John Behan commemorates the victims of the Great Famine who emigrated from this coast. The memorial adds historical depth to the pilgrimage, connecting Patrick's mountain with Ireland's suffering and survival.
Visitor Centre and Starting Point
The modern visitor centre at the base provides information, facilities, and a gathering point for pilgrims. The traditional pilgrimage begins here, following the marked path up the mountain.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Reek Sunday — Last Sunday of July
The principal pilgrimage day, when up to 25,000 pilgrims climb the mountain. Mass is celebrated at the summit oratory throughout the day. Many pilgrims begin in darkness to reach the summit for sunrise. Confessions are heard on the mountain.
St. Patrick's Day — March 17
Special observances on Ireland's national day.
Daily Pilgrimages — Year-round
Individual pilgrims climb throughout the year, weather permitting. The mountain is accessible in all seasons, though winter conditions can be severe.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Westport Hotels — The nearby heritage town (8 km) offers extensive accommodation from budget to luxury. Westport Tourism
Murrisk B&Bs — Guesthouses at the base of the mountain provide immediate access.
Campbell's Pub (inn) — Historic pub near the mountain offering accommodation and food.
🚗 Getting There
By Train: Westport railway station (8 km) has services from Dublin Heuston (approximately 3.5 hours).
By Bus: Bus Éireann services connect Westport with Galway, Dublin, and other cities. Local buses and taxis to Murrisk from Westport.
By Car: Croagh Patrick is located at Murrisk, 8 km west of Westport on the R335. Parking available at the visitor centre. From Dublin, approximately 4 hours via N4/N5/N17 and N60. From Galway, approximately 1.5 hours via N17 and N60.
📚 Further Reading
Harry Hughes. Croagh Patrick: An Ancient Mountain Pilgrimage — Comprehensive guide to the pilgrimage.
Michael Gibbons. Croagh Patrick, County Mayo — Archaeological and historical study.
🔗 Useful Links
Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre — Information and conditions.
Archdiocese of Tuam — Diocesan pilgrimage information.
Westport Tourism — Accommodation and local information.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Knock (60 km) — Ireland's national Marian shrine.
Lough Derg (150 km) — St. Patrick's Purgatory.
Ballintubber Abbey (20 km) — "The Abbey that refused to die," with continuous worship since 1216.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Christ beside me, Christ before me, Christ behind me, Christ within me, Christ beneath me, Christ above me." — St. Patrick, Lorica
