On August 2, 1635, a young mestiza woman named Juana Pereira walked through the forest near Cartago, then the colonial capital of Costa Rica. Beside a spring, she found a small dark stone statue—barely nine inches tall—of the Virgin Mary holding the Christ Child. She carried it home, but the next morning it had vanished. Returning to the forest, she found the statue in the same spot. This happened three times. The people of Cartago understood: the Virgin wished to remain with them, among the poor and marginalized, at the place where clean water flowed from the earth.
Today, that tiny statue—known affectionately as La Negrita (the Little Black One)—rests in a golden shrine in the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels, and the spring beneath the basilica still flows with water pilgrims believe has healing power. Each August 2, over two million people—nearly half of Costa Rica's population—walk to Cartago in one of the largest annual pilgrimages in the Americas. This is La Romería, a journey of faith that turns highways into rivers of devotion as pilgrims from every corner of the nation converge on the basilica, many kneeling for the final meters, to venerate the patroness of Costa Rica.
Cartago sits in the Central Valley, 22 kilometers southeast of San José, at the foot of Irazú Volcano. The city's colonial architecture, scarred by earthquakes and rebuilt with resilience, bears witness to four centuries of devotion to La Negrita. The basilica's Byzantine domes rise above the plaza, a beacon for pilgrims who come not only on the feast day but year-round to pray, to collect holy water from the spring, and to leave tokens of gratitude—milagros—testifying to prayers answered.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The apparition of La Negrita occurred during a period when Spanish colonial authorities enforced strict racial hierarchies. That the Virgin appeared as a dark-skinned figure and chose to manifest to a mestiza woman—of mixed indigenous and European heritage—carried profound theological significance. The statue's refusal to be moved from the spring symbolized Mary's preferential presence among the marginalized. By 1639, a small chapel stood at the site of the finding. The spring became a place of healing, and pilgrims began arriving from across Central America.
Earthquakes repeatedly destroyed the sanctuary. The 1841 earthquake leveled much of Cartago, including the church. Each time, the people rebuilt. The current Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels, completed in 1939, blends Byzantine and Spanish colonial architectural elements. Its Greek cross plan, soaring domes, and intricate interior mosaics reflect Costa Rica's determination to create a shrine worthy of their beloved Negrita. Pope Pius XI elevated the church to the rank of minor basilica in 1935, recognizing its importance to Latin American Catholicism.
The devotion to La Negrita grew alongside Costa Rican national identity. In 1824, she was declared patroness of Costa Rica. Pope John Paul II visited the basilica in March 1983 during his apostolic journey to Central America, praying before the statue and affirming the spiritual bond between the Virgin and the Costa Rican people. The shrine became a place where national identity and Catholic faith intertwined, where pilgrims from remote mountain villages and urban San José alike found common ground before the small dark statue.
The holy spring remains the heart of the sanctuary's healing ministry. Beneath the main basilica, a crypt chapel built around the spring allows pilgrims to collect water in bottles and containers. Thousands believe this water has cured illnesses, restored broken relationships, and answered desperate prayers. The walls of the basilica are lined with milagros—small metal charms shaped like legs, hearts, houses, and babies—left by pilgrims as testimony to miracles received through La Negrita's intercession.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Cartago
Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles
Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels
The Byzantine-style basilica dominates Cartago's central plaza with its white stone facade, twin bell towers, and copper-green domes. Completed in 1939 after decades of construction, the building exemplifies resilience: each stone was laid in defiance of the earthquakes that had repeatedly destroyed earlier churches on this site. The interior features soaring arches, intricate mosaics depicting Costa Rican religious history, and stained-glass windows that bathe the nave in colored light. At the front of the basilica, enshrined in gold and surrounded by candles, stands La Negrita—the nine-inch dark stone statue that has drawn pilgrims for nearly four centuries.
Pilgrims approach the altar on their knees, a tradition dating to the earliest days of the devotion. Many walk the entire 22-kilometer route from San José on their knees, an act of penance and devotion that can take hours. The basilica's nave accommodates thousands during major feasts, yet even on ordinary days, a steady stream of pilgrims fills the pews, praying the rosary, lighting candles, and gazing at the small statue that holds the nation's heart.
Cripta de la Piedra
Crypt of the Stone
Beneath the main basilica, a crypt chapel marks the exact location where Juana Pereira found La Negrita beside the spring in 1635. The spring still flows, channeled through stone basins where pilgrims fill bottles and wash their hands and faces. The air is cool and damp, heavy with the smell of stone and water. Pilgrims descend the stairs, often on their knees, to pray at the stone that marks the site of the apparition and to collect the holy water they believe carries healing power.
The crypt walls are covered with photographs, crutches, and written testimonies left by those who credit La Negrita with curing cancer, healing broken bones, saving marriages, and guiding loved ones home safely. The sheer volume of these offerings—layer upon layer of gratitude—transforms the crypt into a physical archive of faith. Pilgrims linger here, whispering prayers, touching the cold stone, and filling containers with water to carry home to sick relatives or friends in need.
The spring water, geologically speaking, flows from the slopes of Irazú Volcano, filtered through layers of volcanic rock. To pilgrims, it is more than hydrology—it is grace made tangible, the Virgin's continued presence among her people.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of Our Lady of the Angels (La Romería) — August 2
Each year on the night of August 1, Costa Rica's highways transform into pilgrimage routes. Over two million people—Ticos from every province, foreign visitors, entire families carrying infants, elderly men and women supported by grandchildren—begin walking toward Cartago. The 22-kilometer route from San José becomes a river of faith, illuminated by headlamps and candles, as pilgrims walk through the night to arrive at the basilica by dawn on August 2.
Many walk on their knees for the final kilometers, a sacrificial act of penance and devotion. The streets of Cartago fill with vendors selling flowers, candles, and bottled water. Pilgrims sing hymns, pray the rosary, and share stories as they walk. Families who live along the route set up rest stops, offering free water, coffee, and medical aid to weary travelers. The atmosphere blends solemnity and celebration: this is a national pilgrimage, a Costa Rican expression of Catholic faith that transcends social class and political divisions.
The feast day Mass, celebrated on the morning of August 2, is attended by the president, bishops, and clergy from across Costa Rica. The basilica overflows, with crowds filling the plaza outside. After Mass, pilgrims visit the crypt to collect holy water, leave milagros, and pray for healing. The celebration continues throughout the day with processions, music, and traditional Costa Rican food sold in the streets. By evening, the city slowly empties as pilgrims begin the journey home, their bottles filled with holy water and their hearts renewed.
Preparations for La Romería begin on July 23 with a nine-day novena. Pilgrims from distant regions like Guanacaste start walking as early as July 25. August 2 is a national holiday in Costa Rica, and businesses close so families can participate. This pilgrimage is not merely a religious event—it is a defining feature of Costa Rican identity, a shared ritual that unites the nation in devotion to La Negrita.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Grandpas Hotel & Restaurante (boutique hotel) — Located in Cot de Oreamuno on the road to Irazú Volcano, this charming property offers rustic cabins with views of the surrounding volcanoes. Guests enjoy excellent Costa Rican cuisine in the on-site restaurant, free WiFi, and private parking. A peaceful retreat 30 minutes from the basilica. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel Casa Aura (boutique hotel) — Cozy boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Cartago, just 1.9 kilometers from the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels. Offers garden views, free WiFi, and a tranquil atmosphere ideal for pilgrims seeking comfort and proximity to the shrine. Cash payment only. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
La Casa de Mamá Coyita (B&B) — Family-run bed and breakfast in Cartago with a garden, terrace, and shared kitchen. Guests praise the excellent breakfast and very clean rooms. Located 6 kilometers from the basilica and 6 kilometers from Jardín Botánico Lankester. Free private parking available. Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Air: The nearest international airport is Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) in Alajuela, approximately 30 kilometers from Cartago. From the airport, taxis to Cartago take about 45 minutes and cost $45-$60. Uber is also available in the Central Valley.
By Train: From San José, take the train to Cartago. The journey takes approximately 2 hours and costs $2. Trains depart from San José's central station with connections through the Central Valley.
By Bus: Buses depart regularly from San José Terminal Transtusa to Cartago. Take line 302, which runs frequently throughout the day. The journey takes approximately 1 hour 45 minutes including transfers. Buses are affordable and reliable.
By Car: From San José, take Route 2 southeast for 22 kilometers to Cartago. The drive takes 30-45 minutes depending on traffic. Free parking is available near the basilica, though spaces fill quickly during major feast days.
On Foot: The 22-kilometer pilgrimage route from San José to Cartago is walked by millions each August 2 during La Romería. The route follows the main highway (Route 2) and takes 5-8 hours depending on pace. Many pilgrims walk overnight to arrive at dawn.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Natasha Gordon-Chipembere, Finding La Negrita — Historical novel exploring the legend of Costa Rica's Black Madonna and its impact on national identity. Winner of the 2023 Silver IPPY Award for Best Historical Fiction.
Glenm Gómez Álvarez, La Negrita — Published by the Fundación Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, this book provides historical and devotional context for the shrine and pilgrimage.
Online Resources:
Catholic Travel Guide: Costa Rica - Shrine of La Negrita — Practical pilgrimage guide with history and visitor information.
Vatican: Apostolic Journey to Central America, 1983 — Official Vatican record of Pope John Paul II's visit to Costa Rica, including his stop at Cartago.
🔗 Useful Links
Santuario Nacional de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles — Official sanctuary website with Mass schedules and pilgrimage information.
Visit Costa Rica: Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels — Tourism board information about the basilica and Cartago.
Diocese of Cartago — Diocesan website with pastoral resources and news.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Camino de Costa Rica — This 280-kilometer coast-to-coast trail, established in 2018, crosses Costa Rica from the Pacific to the Caribbean. The route passes through the Cartago region, and many pilgrims add a detour to visit the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels. The Camino promotes sustainable tourism and spiritual reflection through Costa Rica's diverse landscapes.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Orosi Church (17 km south) — The Iglesia de San José de Orosi, built between 1743 and 1767, is one of the oldest churches still in use in Costa Rica. This National Heritage site features colonial architecture, religious art, and a peaceful setting in the Orosi Valley. A short drive from Cartago, it offers pilgrims a glimpse of Costa Rica's colonial Catholic heritage.
Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Heredia (35 km northwest) — Known as the Fortín de la Pura, this 19th-century basilica features distinctive fortress-like architecture and houses the image of the Immaculate Conception venerated throughout the Central Valley. The church's imposing presence has anchored Heredia's central plaza since 1797.
Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Concepción del Rescate de Ujarrás (20 km southeast) — The ruins of Costa Rica's oldest colonial church, built in 1575 and abandoned after floods in 1833. This open-air sanctuary in the Orosi Valley commemorates a miraculous 1666 victory attributed to the Virgin's intercession. Annual pilgrimages honor the site's spiritual heritage.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"I entrust to her protection, as patroness of the nation, all the sons and daughters of this land and those who work with them in the important task of building and animating the living community of the Church." — Pope John Paul II, Address to the Bishops of Costa Rica, 2001